Becka goes over how to cycle a reef aquarium.

The Nitrogen Cycle – How to Cycle your Reef Aquarium

Becka goes over how to cycle a reef aquarium.Join this channel to get access to perks:https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGdAIpjFq4vygKzXAyDKKtQ/joinhttp://www…

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http://www.tidalgardens.com

#tidalgardens #coral #reefaquarium

The salt we use:
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Our Favorite Fish and Coral Foods:
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About Tidal Gardens:Tidal Gardens is a coral farm located in Copley, OH. We are constantly on the lookout for amazing new corals and attempt to propagate them sustainably. In addition, Tidal Gardens produces videos on a variety of reef related topics with a focus on corals and aquaculture.About Than Thein:Than Thein is the owner of Tidal Gardens, a coral farm located in Copley, OH. He has a background in biology, computer science, business, and law and left the corporate environment to farm corals. He is also a certified diver and specializes in underwater photography and videography.

Choosing The Best Types of Fish for Your Pond

As you set out to choose some fish, you might want to have your email address handy for the pond informer sites. You can get some great information and resources with comment name details. Our pond informer style is to make sure you have all of the relevant information to choose the best variety of species of fish to coordinate with your plants, temperature, pond size, and more.

Fish Species to Exercise Caution With

There are two specific species in the variety of fish choices that you may want to take care of when using. While one or two different types might be ok there are some varieties that you won’t want to have more than 1 type in there with. You can have 10 or 15 of the same kind but must be careful about others.

Catfish

The first one to be aware of is catfish. These fish can handle any water and just about any temperature. They forage for their own food and they can hang out with 50 other catfish and grow to some pretty hefty size measurements. Predators are not likely to be a participant in eating your catfish.

The catfish can get pretty wild, which is important to know in the navigation of choice. The catfish is a willing participant and might makes friends with the other 15 fish you have but they also have a short temper. They certainly don’t make good pets.

Catfish can be wild bullies that like to start fights and if you have a range of other 2, 5, or 10 fish they might not be able to defend themselves against the size range and sheer force of a catfish. We recommend that you be selective about what you place in a pond in addition to catfish to avoid one issue such as this in 2021.

Catfish are very strong and can go from 1 to 100 on that scale in no time. They have the strength to eat smaller ones or even bite bodies in half of some kinds of categories out there.

Sturgeon

The sturgeon is another fish that you should use caution within aquariums and ponds. These fish prefer not to be in groups and like to do their own thing. They can thrive in many areas and really display beauty but they can get very large.

It can be hard to work with sturgeon because they are picky about their temperatures. These fish need cold water and a good amount of it. They aren’t a fan of the sun making their water hot. They do like shade and cold water and the sturgeon may not even try to thrive in any other setting.

Fish Groups to Avoid for Outdoors

Next, there are some fish to discuss in this article that you may want to avoid using in posts. While their beauty might draw you in, you must be careful.

Some of these do amazing on the inside or in regulated spaces but don’t do as well outdoors.

Plecos

These little things feast on parasites and algae and you would think you can just toss them in like minnows but you can’t. They need heat. If you do place them outdoors, be sure you have heat in the pond.

You might be better off using minnows if your goal is to regulate insects and such.

Tropical Fish

You shouldn’t ever place the tropical variety in an outdoor pond unless you are in a tropical environment. While they look nice to us, they also look nice to predators. At the same time, they also need a lot of warmth which can be challenging to keep up with.

 

Conclusion

Filling up the pond with plants and fish is a given. Your goal may be to have a range of one or two that just look really great or it may be to help maintain the plants in the area. Whatever your reasoning, be sure you choose an option suitable to your needs and nature or landscape region into which they are being placed.

Expert Tip

The best type of fish for a small pond in 2021 is the goldfish, particularly a fancy goldfish. You can also try algae eater, shubunkins, and even a minnow or 2.

Did You Know?

Shubunkins are spotted and colorful goldfish that are strong and sturdy. Shubunkins have a pretty calico print on their bodies and fins that sets them apart in name and visibility.

Choosing The Best Types of Fish for Your Pond

As you set out to choose some fish, you might want to have your email address handy for the pond informer sites. You can get some great information and resources with comment name details. Our pond informer style is to make sure you have all of the relevant information to choose the best variety of species of fish to coordinate with your plants, temperature, pond size, and more.

Fish Species to Exercise Caution With

There are two specific species in the variety of fish choices that you may want to take care of when using. While one or two different types might be ok there are some varieties that you won’t want to have more than 1 type in there with. You can have 10 or 15 of the same kind but must be careful about others.

Catfish

The first one to be aware of is catfish. These fish can handle any water and just about any temperature. They forage for their own food and they can hang out with 50 other catfish and grow to some pretty hefty size measurements. Predators are not likely to be a participant in eating your catfish.

The catfish can get pretty wild, which is important to know in the navigation of choice. The catfish is a willing participant and might makes friends with the other 15 fish you have but they also have a short temper. They certainly don’t make good pets.

Catfish can be wild bullies that like to start fights and if you have a range of other 2, 5, or 10 fish they might not be able to defend themselves against the size range and sheer force of a catfish. We recommend that you be selective about what you place in a pond in addition to catfish to avoid one issue such as this in 2021.

Catfish are very strong and can go from 1 to 100 on that scale in no time. They have the strength to eat smaller ones or even bite bodies in half of some kinds of categories out there.

Sturgeon

The sturgeon is another fish that you should use caution within aquariums and ponds. These fish prefer not to be in groups and like to do their own thing. They can thrive in many areas and really display beauty but they can get very large.

It can be hard to work with sturgeon because they are picky about their temperatures. These fish need cold water and a good amount of it. They aren’t a fan of the sun making their water hot. They do like shade and cold water and the sturgeon may not even try to thrive in any other setting.

Fish Groups to Avoid for Outdoors

Next, there are some fish to discuss in this article that you may want to avoid using in posts. While their beauty might draw you in, you must be careful.

Some of these do amazing on the inside or in regulated spaces but don’t do as well outdoors.

Plecos

These little things feast on parasites and algae and you would think you can just toss them in like minnows but you can’t. They need heat. If you do place them outdoors, be sure you have heat in the pond.

You might be better off using minnows if your goal is to regulate insects and such.

Tropical Fish

You shouldn’t ever place the tropical variety in an outdoor pond unless you are in a tropical environment. While they look nice to us, they also look nice to predators. At the same time, they also need a lot of warmth which can be challenging to keep up with.

 

Conclusion

Filling up the pond with plants and fish is a given. Your goal may be to have a range of one or two that just look really great or it may be to help maintain the plants in the area. Whatever your reasoning, be sure you choose an option suitable to your needs and nature or landscape region into which they are being placed.

Expert Tip

The best type of fish for a small pond in 2021 is the goldfish, particularly a fancy goldfish. You can also try algae eater, shubunkins, and even a minnow or 2.

Did You Know?

Shubunkins are spotted and colorful goldfish that are strong and sturdy. Shubunkins have a pretty calico print on their bodies and fins that sets them apart in name and visibility.

Check out Piscine Energetics’ effort to curve the local aquariums’ food costs. It’s an initiative that we can get behind to help our amazing public aquariums around the world!

Okanagan pet food company launches Save Your Aquarium fundraiser

An Okanagan pet food company has launched a fundraiser for zoos and aquariums across North America. Titled ‘Save Your Aquarium,’ the goal of the campaign is to help provide food for zoos and aquariums during the coronavirus pandemic.

Afishionado : a person who likes, knows about, and appreciates a usually fervently pursued interest or activity. (In this case, fish, corals and reef keeping). We are group of passionate hobbyists who are all about educating, creating innovative contents and providing eye popping visuals for hobbyists of all levels.

Here are 6 reasons to put 2 simple sponge filters in your aquarium sump today.

#1 Expand the capacity of your biological filter

The sponge creates some extra surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow on. This additional surface area gives your tank additional biological filtration capacity. Never a bad thing.

#2 Be ready to take care of a sick or injured fish

Let’s face it–bullying and aggression happen in our tanks. Fish get too close to pumps and get injured. Having a sponge filter in your sump allows you to set up a hospital tank to nurture an injured animal back to health without taking any of the risks associated with new tank syndrome.

You and I both know that jawfish isn’t sick, but it’s pretty funny.

#3 Be ready for a new purchase

We all face that ‘gotta have it’ thing, when we stop in our local fish store or get that sale email from our favorite online shop. If you find that fish or coral at your local fish store (but don’t have your quarantine tank all set up), you can quickly get it all set up without waiting for it to cycle–or worse yet, adding your fish or coral to either the uncycled quarantine tank or the display tank and hoping for the best.

#4 Speed up your quarantine throughput

You might be wondering why should you consider putting TWO sponges in the sump. The reason? It is the most efficient way for me to continually add new saltwater fish to the tank.

Here is what I do:

When my tank is otherwise stable and/or I have not purchased a new fish or coral in a while, I shut my quarantine tank down. I completely dry it out and let it ‘rest’, rather than run it while empty. That cuts down on noise, maintenance, and electrical costs.

When I buy a new fish, I simply do a partial water change in the main tank and use that wastewater to fill ~75% of the quarantine tank–and top off the rest of the tank with newly made saltwater (that’s essentially like giving it a 25% water change, right away).

I grab the sponge filter from my sump and have the tank up-and-running in a matter of minutes, complete with conditioned water and an active, cycled biological filter.

Then, after my fish or coral finishes their stay in quarantine, I clean out and dry the tank again (this prevents harboring of critters in the quarantine tank). At that time, I don’t want to return the sponge filter to the display tank…I simply clean that with freshwater and dry that out too.

Then I start my QT tank all over again the same way I did the first time–with a water change from the display tank and setting up the filter with sponge # 2, which is all ready to go. Then I replace the clean, dry sponge back in the sump so it is ready in a month for my next cycle.

#5 Be ready for an emergency

What if your return pump burns out. If you don’t have a backup pump in the house, or even if you do but have to run to work right when it breaks, you could simply set up your sponge filters to keep life support going until you can make the switch.

If you buy a battery operated air pump too,  you’ll be ready to oxygenate and remove ammonia from your tank, in the event of a power failure, too.

#6 Reason to add a sponge filter:
be a local hero

You can eliminate new tank syndrome in your zip code by allowing anyone starting up their own saltwater tank to borrow that sponge to help them jump-start their reef tank with a rockstar biological filter, courtesy of you. You might get a street named after you.

Clarification

You don’t need to ‘set the sponge filters up’. By this, I mean, you don’t actually hook them up to the air pump to make them bubble away in your sump, although you could if you wanted to. Assuming you have reasonable water flow through your sump, your sponge filter will naturally colonize with beneficial bacteria all on its own. Just be sure to shake the detritus out before you intend to use it as your quarantine filter so that it works efficiently in QT.

No sump? No problem

If you don’t have a sump, you can still do the same thing by stashing the sponge filters behind the live rock in your display tank. As long as it’s out of sight, you won’t mind it in there and it will still be there and ready when you need it.

Conclusions

For just a small amount of money, adding a sponge filter will increase the biological filtration capacity to your display tank, be ready to set up a quarantine or hospital tank at the drop of a hat or keep life-sustaining oxygenation and filtration in the event of a power failure.

Why not take a moment to get prepared today. Add a couple of sponges to your shopping cart today.

A thriving saltwater aquarium is a dynamic system—the populations of bacteria, algae, and invertebrate life adjust to the conditions you provide and resources available to them for growth. What does it take to have a successful, thriving saltwater aquarium? There are no secrets or silver bullets, but there are a few habits and behaviors demonstrated by responsible reef aquarium owners that lead to success more often than not. Here are 7 habits of a responsible reef aquarium hobbyist. 

Habit 1: Do their research first

  A responsible reef aquarium hobbyist enjoys researching the living creatures they hope to keep in their tanks and spends the time to learn about care requirements before purchasing.  Before you buy, you want to know at least a few of the following facts about your intended saltwater fish or coral purchase: 

• Compatibility—is it incompatible with any other species? Is it aggressive to other fish or corals?
• Average lifespan—how long will this animal (in good care) be in your care?
• Adult size—it might be cute and little now, but how big will it end up?
• Minimum tank size—do you have the space to meet its needs?
• Feeding—what and how does it eat?

Habit 2: Don’t buy on impulse

  Let’s face it, we all have the ‘gotta have it’ gene. Collecting is part of what makes this hobby so enjoyable for us, but over the years, I’ve noticed that the people with longevity in this hobby are the ones able to resist that gotta have it urge most of the time and don’t buy on impulse. Instead, they research, plan, and buy responsibly. Buying on impulse is a recipe for disaster—and disasters often start out small and then become big problems. Take my word for it. Impulse buys can have special requirements you just can’t meet in the aquarium. Sometimes they are not reef safe and will eat your prized corals, clams, or other invertebrates. They can be aggressive and terrorize your mild fish. Terrorized fish often succumb to parasitic infections, like marine ICH or bacterial infections, which can spread throughout your tank and kill other animals. Or maybe the impulse buy wasn’t a healthy fish and it just disappears one day and rots in the back of your tank behind the rocks. Regardless, it’s not worth it. A lot can go wrong and often it does, in a big way. 

Habit 3: Use proper quarantine procedures, even when they don’t want to

  Patience and discipline are important virtues in this hobby. One of the hardest tests we all face is when we decide whether or not to put our new purchase in quarantine before adding them to our display tanks. Are we willing and able to deny ourselves the instant gratification of adding the fish or coral right to our display tank for the benefit of allowing time to observe and treat any issues that might be present? The quarantine process can feel like it takes an eternity, but it is one of the most important things you can do to protect your tank and the livestock you already have from unintended consequences. While it might feel like 30 days in quarantine is a big price to pay, it is well worth preventing a major, avoidable issue in your tank. 

Habit 4: Demonstrates mastery of balance

  One of the most important concepts that drives overall success with a saltwater aquarium is balance. Maintaining a healthy reef aquarium environment is all about keeping the water quality high and keeping it from changing dramatically over time—and doing that requires balance. The most successful reef tank owners know that maintaining balance means: Not overfeeding It’s tempting to want to stuff our piscine loved ones with delicious morsels of food every time we walk in front of the tank. Some species of fish will actually swim to the front glass (or acrylic) and pander for food. But the responsible aquarium owner knows that too much food results in too much waste—either from increased digestion or from uneaten food. Too much of a good thing can overwhelm a biological filter and cause big problems. Not over-stocking the tank The responsible aquarium owner also knows that balance is important to keeping a viable biological filter that protects the livestock in the tank—and that adding too much livestock all at once upsets that balance and can result in catastrophe. A spike in ammonia levels, caused by adding too much livestock at once, can burn your animals or even kill them. Take your time and spread out acclimation to your new tank over a few days (or a week) to give your biological filter some time to adjust—and monitor those water conditions, performing water changes as needed, to keep water parameters in check. Do not make a lot of changes all at once Let’s face it, the other genes we all tend to share in this hobby are the ‘tinkering’ gene and the ‘upgrading’ gene.  We tend to be the type of person who wants to add the latest tech or just tinker to make one more thing better about our tanks. Tinkering and improving things is generally a good thing, but doing too much too quickly can upset the balance of our tanks and cause big issues. The ocean is an environment that doesn’t change very quickly—and when the reefs in our homes change too quickly, that can often spell disaster for the inhabitants. The old salty veterans know that while tinkering and upgrading are part of the joy of the hobby, they can also be the enemy of stability—and the best of the best do tinker, but make changes very slowly, to minimize stress or shock to the livestock 

Habit 5: Follow routines

  Another way the most successful hobbyists maintain consistent water quality is by following routines. Some of the happiest and successful aquarium owners I know are almost obsessive, or compulsive about routine. They have a system and they stick to it. On the surface, it can look a little…well…obsessive or compulsive…but the fact of the matter is that these people also tend to have the most pristine, perfect tanks. They have maintenance, cleaning, and feeding all down to a rhythm—and the animals in their tanks know exactly what to expect and they tend to thrive. I’m not recommending you follow a routine to the level of compulsion, but I do think there is merit in figuring out a routine, tweaking that routine to optimize it, and then sticking to it, in the name of stability for your tank. 

Habit 6: Follow advice, don’t ignore it

  Another distinguishing feature of the most successful aquarium owners is that they tend (more often than not) to seek advice and they follow it, rather than challenge it.  Taking the other side of the issue for a moment to make a point, the people who seem to burn out fastest in this hobby are those who enter with their hair on fire, ready to start their tank. They ask a lot of questions but don’t seem to want to take the advice. They might learn about the one fish per tank rule, the don’t mix species rule, and the don’t mix these fish with these invertebrate rules…but they think…that doesn’t apply to me. Sometimes it can be difficult, when starting out, to be able to tell good advice from bad advice, but the people who burn out fast are those with a knack for ignoring the good advice and doing their own thing, despite receiving that advice. So if you want success, ask lots of questions from those with experience and then take the advice they so thoughtfully offer. 

Habit 7: Carefully feed the animals in their tanks

  The people I’ve met who enjoy their tanks the most are those who know about the nutritional requirements of all their inhabitants and enjoy the act of feeding them—not just the fish—but the corals and other invertebrates too. Almost everything you will care for in your tank is an animal—which means (among other things) that it eats other stuff…do you know what stuff it needs to eat to be healthy? Do you take the time each week to make sure you’ve met its nutritional needs? Did you enjoy watching it eat? Take some more time this week to enjoy that aspect of the hobby and feed those animals with care. If you can embrace the concept of caring for your aquarium more than just ‘maintaining’ it, you will likely have more enjoyment and success. 

Conclusions

  There are no guarantees in this hobby. Because our tanks and the life within it are so dynamic, things are always changing. But if you develop good habits, like those described in this article, you will increase the likelihood that you can care for these amazing creatures for a very long time. 

About the Author

  Albert B. Ulrich III is a long-time saltwater aquarium enthusiast and Amazon bestselling author of The New Saltwater Aquarium Guide and SaltwaterAquariumBlog.com

Is your aquarium lacking some life? The cheerful panda Cory might be just what you need. This active bottom dweller is sure to brighten up any fish tank. Undemanding and peaceful, even beginners will be able to keep this species!

Keep reading for everything you need to know about Corydoras panda and keeping this armored catfish in your own aquarium.

Name(s)

Panda Cory, panda Corydoras, panda catfish. The genus Corydoras is also collectively referred to as armored catfish.

Corydoras panda natural habitat

Panda Cory catfish are native to South America, found primarily in Peru and Ecuador.

The species is found in both clear and blackwater environments, often with lots of leaf litter and a soft sandy bottom. The water temperature can be cool, often in the 60s (15-20 °C), due to run-off from snow-capped mountains.

Corydoras panda appearance

Corydoras panda are a small armored catfish species that get to be up to 5 centimeters (3 inches). They have an off-white to pale pink base color with black patches over the eyes, dorsal fin, and peduncle.

It’s because of the dark patches over the eyes that this species received its name, in honor of the giant panda of China.

There are a few Corydoras species out there that are visually very similar to the panda Cory. Corydoras metae (also known as the bandit Cory), for example, is very difficult to distinguish from its panda cousin at first glance. The clearest giveaway is its more elongated ‘eye patch’. Corydoras melini features a diagonal stripe across the body and lacks the typical black tail spot.

The image below shows a mix of similar looking Corydoras: quite confusing, so make sure you know which species you’re buying!

Corydoras panda requirements

Panda Cory catfish are energetic fish that thrive in large setups, softer water, and big groups. If you plan to keep a group, aim for no less than six individuals since they are more social and less shy in larger numbers. More is always better and a large swarm of panda Cories zooming across the bottom of your aquarium is quite a sight to see.

Since they are active and speedy, always on the lookout for food, it’s highly recommended to go for a minimum aquarium size of 20 gallons (76 liter, with a longer tank being preferable) if you’re interested in keeping panda Corydoras. In fact, you’d do best with 30 plus gallons (114 liter). While they do benefit from planted tanks with lots of shade and hiding places, just be sure to have enough open space along the bottom for the fish to zip along and sift for food.

Since they are commonly found blackwater conditions and love browsing around the bottom of the aquarium for food, trying to recreate a similar environment at home is highly recommended. You can use lots of leaf litter (like almond leaves and alder cones) as well as driftwood to darken the water and lower the pH. There’s also the added benefit that the fish will have infusoria to snack on as the leaves decompose.

It’s important to remember that panda Corydoras thrive in the low 70s ( < 25 °C) so they may not be ideal for a tropical tank. If they are kept in warmer temperatures on a long term basis, their lifespan may be reduced.

Corydoras panda tankmates

Corydoras panda are peaceful fish; in fact, they play so well with their neighbors that they’re actually on the list of most peaceful community fish. As such, they combine best with other peaceful species, like the other fish mentioned in that article.

Since they are so boisterous, panda Cories may intimidate smaller, slower, and shyer fish. Keep this in mind while stocking: tankmates should be peaceful but not timid. These guys have no problems with ploughing into other fish as they zip along from one side of the aquarium to the other. Other Corydoras species like the ones mentioned here actually make a great option, as their behavior is so similar.

Larger, aggressive fish or fin-nippers should be avoided in an aquarium that contains Corydoras panda. Due to their smaller size they can still easily be harassed. If you’re looking for a sturdy Corydoras that works well with more assertive species, consider going for the bronze Cory instead!

Corydoras panda diet

Panda Cory catfish are not picky eaters. They easily thrive on a variety of foods, from sinking pellets and wafers to live foods. Although they should not be purchased just as a ‘cleaning crew’, they do help by consuming leftovers your top- and middwelling fish might have missed.

While their diet tends to be primarily vegetable based, they like a good meal of various types of frozen or live bloodworms, brine shrimp, and daphnia as well. Buying live food at the aquarium store is a risk since parasites are a real possibility, but luckily this doesn’t limit your options too much. Breeding your own live fish foods is quite easy and the section on fish foods contains guides on culturing multiple ‘yummy’ bug species. Additionally, you can also go for the easy option and hatch some brine shrimp eggs for a much-appreciated live snack.

Whatever falls to the bottom of the tank is fair game. However, if you have a large community of fish, you have to take extra care that enough food falls to the bottom for them to eat. Bottom feeder pellets should work well.

They also make a dent in algae but not all types. If you intend to have these fish primarily as algae eaters, they’re not the right fish for you.

Corydoras panda behavior

Panda Cory catfish are highly energetic fish that rarely stay in one place for too long. At times, they seem to move faster than the speed of light as they tear around the aquarium, usually in trios or a large shoal.

The species is most active at night, but you’ll still get to see them be their adorable selves during the day as well.

Corydoras panda breeding

If your goal is to breed panda Cory catfish, one of the first things you should know is that they don’t typically reach sexual majority until around five years of age. Since they are highly social creatures, it’s best to get a group of juveniles and play the long game, waiting for them to reach sexual majority before attempting to spawn. It’s also best to have a ratio of two males per female to increase the odds of successful spawning.

To condition the fish, a rich diet of live foods is recommended. Once the females are ripe with eggs, you can trigger the spawning process by doing a large water change with cooler water and increasing oxygenation.

After spawning, the sticky eggs will be placed on plants, driftwood, or glass. However, panda Cory adults are known to potentially eat their own eggs, so it’s best to initiate spawning in a smaller aquarium where you can remove the breeders after spawning. You can also opt to remove the eggs from a tank and raising them separately.

After four days, the eggs will hatch. The fry are extremely sensitive to changes in water parameters, so it’s crucial that everything remains consistent. It’s also recommended to have the temperature be no more than 72 degrees. Having plenty of leaf litter will provide infusoria for the fry to eat in the beginning stages until they are large enough to accept commercial foods.

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Corydoras are fascinating fish that scour your tank for bits and scraps of food. Because they tend to stay at the bottom, you get to fill the middle and upper portions with other fish like tetras, mollies, or even goldfish! While around 3-5 species can be seen in some pet shops, there are actually over a hundred species of corydoras, most of them extremely hardy, inexpensive, and easy to keep. With that in mind, this article focuses on some of the more popular species of corydoras: the pygmy, bronze, panda, and peppered cory, comparing and contrasting their looks, behaviors, and required care.

Pygmy Cory: The Under-Cat of the Catfish Family

Pygmy corydoras are often overlooked because of their rather dull colorations and tiny sizes (growing to a maximum of around 1.2”!), but they make up for it in personality; pygmy corydoras are some of the most active species of corydoras, sniffing around not just the bottom, but the middle and upper parts of the tank! From afar, you might mistake them for a school of tetra, since they are able to zip around the tank as a shoal, exploring every nook and cranny, scouring every bits and scraps of food they can find. They do best in larger groups, but fortunately, they don’t require as much space as the rest of the catfish in this article. You can, in fact, keep ten of them in a 10 gallon tank due to their diminutive size. You might even see larger tanks keep more than 50 of them! If you’re looking for a tiny scavenger with a big personality, look no further than the pygmy cory.

Panda Cory: The Bottom-Dwelling Bullet

While pygmies love swimming in the middle section more than the top and the bottom parts of the tank, panda corydoras, maintaining the same level of energy as the pygmies, zips and ricochets around the bottom of the tank. They’re a bit bigger than pygmies, growing to an average size of 2”. The markings on their bodies – the black stripe that goes over their eyes, the black accents near the tail and on the dorsal fin, are reminiscent of the markings of the panda, which, as you can guess, is why they’re named panda corydoras. Their behaviors are similar to that of coolie loaches – they tend to swim quickly from corner to corner, shooting up to the surface and back down. If you need a tiny fish that stays at the bottom, the panda cory is a perfect choice, especially for community aquariums housing smaller fish like tetras and dwarf cichlids.

Bronze Cory: The Cookie-Cutter Bottom Dweller

Bronze corydoras are probably the most common species of corydoras, being sold in pretty much 99% of all pet shops. Featuring a dark black body that quickly tapers to white at the bottom, bronze corydoras flash an iridescent bronze color that sometimes appears green under certain lighting conditions. The albino cory comes from the same species, but comes with a milky, pinkish body with a flash of luminescent silver, and a pair of deep crimson eyes. The bronze corydoras you see in pet shops are most likely raised on fish farms because of how easy they are to care for, raise, and breed. For the beginner, the bronze cory is a perfect choice for a bottom dweller. They tend to do better in groups of at least six, so a tank with at least a 20 gallon long footprint is recommended. If you need a scavenger that has a track record of hardiness and peacefulness, the bronze cory fits the bill.

Peppered Cory: The Cool Cat

The peppered cory is the more relaxed catfish in the family. Some aquarists, in fact, would go so far as to call them sluggish and lazy, hovering or perching along the bottom of the tank, then charging for bits of food they spot. Because of this, they don’t get as much love as the other more active corydoras. The splotches of black scattered across its body make it look more like a crossover between a Dalmatian dog and a bronze cory. The dorsal fin is a lot shorter than that of the bronze cory, therefore making it look like it has a small sail on its back. While this might seem like a minor detail for some, this actually adds a nice aesthetic touch to a school of peppered cory sailing and cruising along the bottom of the tank. Like the bronze cory, the peppered cory also comes with an albino variation, but this variation is quite rare and may command a much higher price. Pepper corydoras are just as hardy as bronze corydoras, and will mix well with placid fish like angelfish. If you need a smooth sailor scavenging along the bottom of your tank, the peppered cory is your cat.

In Summary

In summary, for smaller tanks of around 10 gallons, pygmies do great as middle-dwelling fish, while pandas do better as bottom-dwelling fish. Pandas have more distinct and familiar patterns that a lot of aquarists love due to its uncanny resemblance to that of a panda bear, while pygmies have a more “peppered” pattern. For larger tanks of around 20 gallons, bronze corydoras and peppered corydoras are great choices, with bronze corydoras being the best choices for those who want a bit more movement and liveliness, and peppered corydoras being the best fit for those who want a calmer, more relaxed fish.

Conclusion

With over a hundred species and counting, corydoras never cease to surprise the fishkeeping community with new splashes of color, unique shoaling behavior, and excellent scavenging skills. With breeders continually searching for new strains and varieties, new ones are bound to pop up at least every decade. We talked about the four classic corydoras: the pygmy, panda, bronze, and the peppered cory. While new strains and species come up every so often, these four classics have consistently won the hearts of many aquarists, both beginner and advanced. Before venturing off to find unique and expensive new species of fish to add to your tank, you might want to consider these four classics.

The term exotic fish is used to refer to that kind of fish that is not native or belonging to the nature where it lives. It is a kind of fish that has been introduced to an area by human from a different part of the world to a place where it did not exist originally.  Exotic fish species usually appear due to human activity or actions in a given area or ecosystem. There are usually various species of exotic fish that aquarists can choose from to decorate their tanks. These fish species come in a variety of colors with some of them exhibiting sparkling or bright colors. There are lots of aquarium fish species that a beginner aquarist or advanced hobbyist can choose from.

The Top 4 freshwater exotic fish species

Just as discussed above, there lots of species of fish that are exotic that can easily be captured in the wild and taken to be kept in aquariums. In this list, we are going to discuss just the 4 most exotic fresh water fishes that can easily be reared in aquariums without much ado.

The Datnoid

This fish look excellently elegant and is a favorite amongst some experienced hobbyists. It is a native of Thailand and Indonesia waters where it was captured in the wild. They have got patterned bodies featuring large black stripes that make them be referred to as Tiger fish. This fish can grow to impressive large bodies sometimes as large as 65cm. This therefore means that an aquarist will need to have a large aquarium that will enable the fish to live to the fullest. For better results, the aquarist needs to copy the natural conditions that are favorable for the fish and take them to the tank.

Putting as much plants in the aquarium as possible will really do the fish much justice because it likes to hide when trying to keep safe from possible predators. The Datnoids are also avid hunters but they can be kept in the same tank with other docile freshwater animals. The Datnoids will feed on live food because they are carnivorous but you can as well give pellets and frozen food to them.

Discus

Dsicus fish are members of the Cichlids fish family that are native to the Amazon especially the Amazon River Basin area. They come in bright colors that make them appear beautiful and elegant when in glass aquariums. Their shapes are circular with impressive patterns and markings on their bodies. This species of fish come in various exotic colors that make them a great delight for many aquarium enthusiasts. In the past 4 or 5 decades though, the fish has earned a reputation of only being kept by elite hobbyists. However, there is nothing so difficult even for the not so experienced aquarist to try his/her lack in keeping the Discus.

Popular Discus varieties include the turquoise, red, and blue. The fish can grow fairly large and in some cases grow as large as eight to ten inches when they fully matured.

They easily get used to their owners and will develop relationships with their keepers so that they can even greet them when they see them.

Fresh Water Sting Ray

The fresh water sting ray is also another exotic fish that is a native to the Amazon River Basin. They are usually docile and peaceful in nature but are omnivorous feeding on live insects that come along while in the wild. The fish like to hide in dark spots usually on the bottom of the River bed so it would be nice if you could provide hiding places in the tank.

In order to keep sting rays successfully in aquarium you need to have a large tank because the fish can really grow big when mature. There are species of the fish that have been known to grow as large as one meter and therefore will need to have sufficient space in an aquarium. It is also important to note that there certain sting ray species that have venomous tails that could harm you!

At the bottom part of the tank should be sand and also put enough plants and stones that they can use as hiding spots. It is also best to ascertain the size that the sting ray will have when mature before you start keeping one in your aquarium.

If you have plans to keep other mates in the same tank with the fish, please ensure that they are larger than the sting ray itself. Also keep mates who are docile and will not get aggressive easily.

Arowana

The Arowana are also fresh water fish species that are native to the South America region particularly the Amazon River Basin. They can grow generously big with some in the world growing as big as forty eight inches. When in captivity they can grow to at least thirty inches large.

For you to keep the fish better in an aquarium you will need to have a large tank that can hold perfectly well. A tank that is 4ft by 4ft can do, but a larger tank may even be better for this job.

Arowana are carnivorous in nature and will feed on live fish, crabs, shrimps, bugs and other small water animals. In the aquarium, frozen food and pellets can also be fed to the fish although it may be best to provide them live food.

Closing remarks

The task of keeping fish is rife with challenges and beginners ought to learn tricks from experienced professionals who can give guidance. Some of the exotic fish noted above are usually not easy to rear in captive enclosures. Aquarists however need to be very careful with the tank water and ensure that they perform the necessary tests to ascertain things like pH, acidity and hardness. There are some fish species that will easily die if proper care is not administered to them. To avoid the possibility of losing your aquarium fish due to negligence and ineptness, ensure that you follow the laid down rules well.

The Jewel Cichlid is native to Africa and belongs to the cichlid family. In the wild, this fish species can be found in streams, rivers, creeks, lakes and a variety of water lagoons. A popular species in the aquarium, jewel cichlid is a very colorful fish that sparkles as well. Known widely to be aggressive, the fish needs extensive care as it may be difficult to keep in a home tank if certain rules are ignored. A jewel cichlid care guide is therefore important for a beginner.

As most people are taken captive by their beautiful coloration, the desire to keep it in a tank may suffice. Needless to say, before getting into this serious business, it pays to learn as much about is as is necessary. For example, placing them in the same environment with the danos and guppies may be very tricky.

Appearance

They come in a variety of bright colorations. These vary from bright red to purple with greenish spots. During breeding however, they become even brighter. The males have more pronounced brightness with more extended dorsal, anal and ventral fins.

Their sizes range from 3 inches to 12. In the wild, they tend to be bigger than they are in the home aquarium. Basically, this is easily explainable as they are able to meet all the required nutritional needs in the wild as opposed to the home tank. They live for about 5 years.

Keeping the Jewel Cichlid

Stocking the Jewel Cichlid in the community tank is a little difficult. They are often territorial and tend to be very aggressive, more so when the female lays the eggs and when they are caring for their fry. Of course this does not mean they cannot be stocked with other fish. They can. But one must ensure the tank is large enough to give room for the cichlid to form their own territory.

When in a community tank, it is also important to decorate it with a variety of rocks and some plants. This is likely to break sight lines and brings aggression to a minimum. Also not to forget is that they easily become fin nippers more so when not well fed. This information is important if other fish varieties are to share a tank with the cichlid. In this case, they should not be paired with fish species that exhibit elongated flowing fins.

Requirements for a tank housing the Jewel Cichlid

In Africa from where they originated, the Jewel Cichlid was basically used to living in muddy waters found at the bottom of lakes, rivers or streams. This will help an aquarist establish the best home for this fish. All the same, they require slightly bigger tank capacities to help them move freely and form territories. As much as fish size heavily determines tank size, for the Jewel Cichlid, 40 gallons or more is the most appropriate. The only exception is during breeding when an even larger sized tank is a necessity if other fish are present.

To keep fish healthy, it is imperative that its native environmental requirements are adopted as much as possible. Of course meeting these needs 100% may be impossible, but it pays to try. Some points to keep in mind are:

• A pH of 6.5 to 7.5 is necessary
• Tank temperatures should range between 74 and 80 Farennheit
• Decorations are a must. Since they love to own territories, they would do best with rocks and cave-like features
• Sandy bottom tanks are very ideal for the cichlid. Then there is need for an external filter
• They dig into rocks and may occasionally interfere with plants in the tanks. The best plants to keep inside the tank are cryptocoryne and sword plants. In case there are other plants to be added, ensure their roots are firmly protected by bigger rocks
• To keep the tank habitable, occasionally renew water as is indicated in the jewel cichlid care guide

Feeding

Just like most fish species, the Jewel Cichlid eats numerous foods. For their attractive color to be maintained however, the diet must be varied to contain blood worms, white worms, tubifex and fish frames. Vegetables to be added into the diet may include spirulina and lettuce leaves.

For a better healthy diet, it is important to vary these meals as this helps break monotony in feeding.

Breeding

Unlike most other land and sea animals, the Jewel Cichlid is monogamous. Determining the male from female may be a tough call. However, the females tend to be fatter than the males.

After distinguishing them and putting them together to breed, remember:

• To put compatible fish in the breeding tank because if the male discovers the female is not ready for this, a war may ensue. It pays therefore to observe them carefully until sure they suit each other
• When the male is ready, its color brightens. During this period, it still pays to keep vigil to avoid any damage as a result of a war if the female is not ready
• The temperature of the tank is raised to encourage spawning
• The female lays about 500 eggs mostly on smooth rocks. The breeding ground should hence be purified in advance
• The eggs take about 2 to 4 days to hatch. Soon after, the parents may move them to grounds considered safe until they are old enough to swim
• The Jewel Cichlid is a rare species where both the males and females take care of their fry
• During the first few days, the fry absorb whatever is left of the yolk. After that, they are introduced to mashed pellets and crushed flakes
• The parents may eat some of their fry and this should not be a worry. In case there are other fish in the tank, they can be moved during this period
• The males often form a perimeter around the fry where no fish is allowed to venture into
• When they are protecting their fry, Jewel Cichlids are prone to be aggressive and this might mean moving other fish into another tank

The Jewel Cichlid is an attractive addition to a tank and might be of interest to a fish lover. So long as their requirements as defined in the jewel cichlid care guide are met, this fish species stays quite happy in its home. Although they are known to be aggressive, this can be curtailed by shifting other types of fish to a different tank during spawning. Do not forget that when properly fed and cared for, the beautiful colorations get even more pronounced.