This is one of the questions I am asked most often and which is not answered in any of our previous articles, so it is time to talk about how to choose a skimmer for your marine aquarium.

One of the first questions we may ask ourselves as neophytes is “How do I choose a skimmer?” But it is also one of those questions that comes to mind after a few years of using our skimmer: Which skimmer can I replace my current one for, for better performance?

What a skimmer is and how it works

The skimmer is one of the foundations of the Berlin system and is the one that characterizes it most, as it had never before been employed in the maintenance of a marine aquarium, although its operation had been known about for at least two centuries. The skimmer serves to maintain organic matter at near-zero levels and is therefore critical in maintaining pollutants at levels that allow the growth and maintenance of marine organisms. It acts by extracting surfactants, carbon and hydrogen-based organic molecules, from water.

At this point, let us look at the technical data that can be found about skimmers. We talk about water treated in one hour, air treated in one hour, and diameter of the skimmer body. In addition, of course, to height, cup capacity, and consumption.

But for our choice we focus our attention on the other parameters.

Hourly flow rate: treated water

The first parameter we are interested in is the treated water flow rate. Simply put, each skimmer has a value of water it treats in one hour. Unfortunately, this is not a figure that is always communicated by manufacturers. We in our recent skimmer reviews have started to measure it somewhat, although the value is not entirely accurate.

For the most correct choice, it is necessary to think about what we would like to breed, and therefore what level of pollutants we want to keep in the aquarium. A good starting point may be to consider a skimmer that has an hourly flow rate of treated water between 3 and 4 times the volume of one’s aquarium. You can go down to 2 for soft coral and LPS aquariums. I do not recommend going beyond that to avoid excessive water depletion.

At present, the best advice is to stay close to 3 times the volume to achieve the best balance of water cleanliness and welfare of the housed animals. The number can go up to 4 for SPS aquariums and down to 2 for LPS aquariums.

Let us now look at the skimmers in our tanks of the month, just to get an idea of how the best aquariums are equipped. Of course, these are ones where the water flow rate is known and stated.

• Jm_Reefer, aquarium volume 500 liters, water treated 1,800 l/h: ratio 3.6;
• Alexander Silvioni, aquarium volume 1,500 liters, water treated 4,000 l/h: ratio 2.66;
• Luca Perini, aquarium volume 300 liters, water treated 1,400 l/h: ratio 4.66;
• Jonathan Betti, aquarium volume 600 liters, water treated 2,300 l/h: ratio 3.83;
• DaniReef, aquarium volume 400 liters, water treated 1,150 l/h: ratio 2.87;

Efficiency and treated air

There are different schools of thought in skimmer construction. Those who prefer more treated air, and those who prefer more contact time. Hard for me to say which is best, and all manufacturers always state treated air.

Normally, however, we can stay close to a ratio of 2 between aquarium volume and treated air. So a 300-liter aquarium may have an intake of 600 l/h and so on. And in fact even analyzing our aquariums of the month we can always find that value. The differences are mostly given by different philosophies in the construction of the skimmers themselves.

• Jm_Reefer, aquarium volume 500 liters, air treated 1,000 l/h: ratio 2;
• Andrea Minnella, aquarium volume 300 liters, air treated 600 l/h: ratio 2;
• Alexander Silvioni, aquarium volume 1,500 liters, air treated 1,500 l/h: ratio 1;
• Luca Perini, aquarium volume 300 liters, air treated 700 l/h: ratio 2.33;
• Federico Lavezzi, aquarium volume 325 liters, air treated 1,500 l/h: ratio 4.6;
• Jonathan Betti, aquarium volume 600 liters, air treated 1,400 l/h: ratio 2.33;
• DaniReef, aquarium volume 400 liters, air treated 800 l/h: ratio 2.

The diameter of the skimmer body

Another useful parameter to consider is the diameter of the skimmer body. Obviously, the argument is valid where it is cylindrical and not square or rectangular. Generally, if we consider skimmers that were developed at the same time, we can say that for an SPS aquarium, a diameter of 18 cm can be chosen for 400-liter aquariums. Going down 2 cm for LPS aquariums.

In a 300-liter aquarium, a 16 cm diameter is enough for SPS but also a 14 for LPS. And so on. This is because most manufacturers start from similar calculations and therefore the values of pumps, diameter and height are quite homogeneous anyway.

Again we can see the choices that were made by the owners of our aquariums of the month.

• Jm_Reefer, aquarium volume 500 liters, diameter 20 cm;
• Andrea Minnella, aquarium volume 300 liters, diameter 14 cm;
• Alexander Silvioni, aquarium volume 1,500 liters, diameter 25 cm;
• Luca Perini, aquarium volume 300 liters, diameter 18 cm;
• Federico Lavezzi, aquarium volume 325 liters, diameter 16 cm;
• Jonathan Betti, aquarium volume 600 liters, diameter 20 cm;
• DaniReef, aquarium volume 400 liters, diameter 18 cm.

And even in this case we can see how the correspondence is rather maintained.

Other important features

Given a choice I prefer the high drain. This is because all the treated water can be sent to the rising pump compartment, achieving perfect filtration of all the falling water. The cleaning of the glass, automatic or not, is another of those features that have now become indispensable, but also the possibility of having an external drain from the glass to be able to obviate even prolonged essences. Ease of maintenance and last but not least noise, although the latest skimmers are much improved in this respect.

Well, now that you have chosen the right skimmer for your aquarium, all that’s left to do is to choose the return pump.

[Translated by Aisja Baglioni]

Aquarium Systems launched Reef Shot, an innovative system for dosing elements, micro elements, and macro elements in aquarium, other than a vitamin dosing system.

Let’s immediately spill the tea: this system is innovative because instead of bottles containing the products it uses vials. More convenient and secure in order to avoid oxidation of the content once opened.

In fact, we know that many products have a tendency to oxide once they’re opened, and they lose those characteristics that we need. With a vial system this doesn’t happen. Every package has 24 vials, but be careful: you don’t have to use the whole vial, you just have to use the included cap to close the vial. You can see the cap in the picture below:

In this way the contents are preserved. In any case, this vial is smaller than the usual bottle, so you would use it all in less time. For this reason Reef Shot is innovative, beyond the quality of the product that we will test accurately in the next weeks.

The Reef Shot line

There are actually 7 products in the Reef Shot line:

• Calcium
• Magnesium
• Strontium
• Iodide
• Reef Elements
• Vitamins
• Coralline Booster

We can divide the range into two groups. One part is related to trace elements: Calcium, Magnesium, Strontium, Iodide and Reef Elements.

While the other is is about coral health: Coralline Booster and Vitamins.

In the next weeks we’ll extensively treat each product, and record our experiences. We would like to know what you think, and are especially curious to hear your feedback.

Aquariums, with the right decoration, can easily accentuate the look of your home. Besides the vibrant variety of fish species, even aquarium plants play a prominent role in improving their appearance.

But that’s not all there is to the plants. Live aquarium plants can actively regulate the water’s chemistry. They balance the biological waste produced in the tank by removing excess phosphorus and nitrates from the water.

Like any other live plant in nature, even the aquarium plants support gas exchange, especially carbon dioxide and oxygen levels. However, installing live plants into the tank can be a challenge.

There are not one but multiple ways you can add live plants to your home aquarium. Some by tying to the gravel in the tank and others by planting the plants in pots. There are some variants that free float in the tank as well.

Wondering how to plant aquarium plants in pots? This article will address all your general queries and provide you with the required resolutions.

Can You Leave Aquarium Plants in Pots?

If you have an aquarium plant with dense foliage, leaving them in a pot is ideal. However, installing them into the substrate might not anchor them well into the base, leaving them floating in the tank.

Not just pots, some aquarists even use containers to place the plants inside the aquarium.

However, you do have to prepare for the consequences too. The biggest issue with growing aquarium plants in pots is limited growth.

Since pots come with limited space in them, you need to prepare for little plant growth in the designated area. So, it isn’t surprising that pots aren’t ideal for ferns and mosses.

However, there is a benefit to adding live potted aquarium plants. They are easy to move. So, if you want to redesign your tank set-up, potted plants are the way to go.

How to Plant Aquatic Plants in Pots?

Live aquatic plants are available in a variety of options. First, you have your staple choices, and then you have the live aquarium plants that you can transfer to a pot for further growth.

Using potted live aquarium plants is becoming more mainstream due to its benefits. So, how do you prep your aquarium plant in pots?

This is a ubiquitous question most beginner aquarists have in their minds. So, we will be clarifying everything in detail. Follow the steps as mentioned:

• The first step is to start with the soil. Next, you have to wet the soil till it becomes mud consistency.  Once done, you are ready to shift it to the pot.
• Add the soil in the mud consistency and press down a few times in the pot. This will compact the soil in the pot and get rid of air bubbles.
• To insert the live aquarium plant, make a hole in the center of the soil. This should go down to the bottom of the pot.
• Add your plant, ensuring that your roots are exposed and not stuffed down to the bottom. As you place the plant into the pot, secure the surroundings with gravel and substrate.
• Ensure the top layer of the pot is covered with gravel and tightly packed.
• Instead of thrusting the potted aquarium plant into the tank, lower it gradually into the aquarium. Doing so will release the trapped air bubbles.

We’d recommend using plastic or clay pots for the aquarium for best results. They are easy to maintain and don’t attract unwarranted algal growth around them. Also, if you have planting fertilizer, add that to the pot.

Advantages Of Placing Potted Plants in An Aquarium

Contrary to popular belief, potted aquarium plants have a lot of benefits. With the convenience, they also work efficiently in protecting the fish.

Let us walk you through all the benefits in detail:

1. Provide Protection from Fish

Community tanks host different kinds of fish species in them. Some are calm and peaceful, while a few skittish ones like cichlids tend to dig through the substrate.

Anchoring the aquarium plants with string to the substrate can easily de-root them from the spot. This leads to the plant free-floating in the aquarium.

If you don’t want that, using potted live aquarium plants is a stable alternative if you don’t want that. The sturdy pot keeps the plant in place and prevents it from getting displaced from the site.

2. Promote Gas Exchange

Most potted plants are fixed inside clay pots. They are porous and allow easy exchange of water and gases, like oxygen. So, if you are worried about stunted growth in the aquarium, the potted plants take care of such complications.

Leaving your live aquarium plants in the pots promotes faster and healthier plant growth with sufficient nutrient balance.

3. Easy for Redecoration

The most significant benefit of potted plants is that it allows you to pick and move your plants. In addition, you don’t have to untie and tie the plant every time you redecorate.

Also, if an aquarium plant is dead due to a fish attack, you can pick it up and replace it with ease. Rearrangement of the pots in the tank becomes more accessible too.

This, in comparison to the substrate anchored plants, is very difficult to move around. The substrate anchored plants also risk damaging the roots in the process.

4. Easy to Maintain

With potted plants, you have the option to decorate the tank according to your aesthetics. Besides the recyclable containers, you can also use terracotta and clay pots for better versatility.

This can easily accentuate the look of your aquarium and spruce up the space. Also, when you have the plants stable in one place, trimming and caring for the plant becomes easier.

5. Play Area for Small Fish

The empty top layer with gravel serves as a resting and playing spot for small fish species in the tank. It is also ideal for small fish to hide if they feel threatened in the tank.

So, not just for the tank’s appearance, this serves as a good spot for the fish species to chill and have fun.

6. Supports Breeding

The potted plant in the aquarium also serves as a good spot for the fish to lay the eggs. So, this serves as a protective spot for mating during the breeding season.

Since baby fish or fry are at heightened risks of getting eaten, it isn’t surprising that the same can be averted with a potted plant.

Wrapping Up

Using potted aquarium plants for your fish tank can spruce up the appearance and implement several benefits. However, if you are worried about setting it up or using it in the tank, rest assured this article answers all your queries in detail.

If you have further questions in your mind, feel free to leave them for us in the comments.

Many aquarists view themselves as stewards of the marine life in their aquariums. Not only is it fun building a reef, but we also feel a responsibility to properly care for the fish, corals, and other invertebrates that live in our home. Proper care means having a plan to maintain the aquarium’s health. The best way to do that is with a reef aquarium maintenance schedule. You’ve heard the old saying, “failing to plan is planning to fail.” It’s no different with our aquariums. I’ve outlined a basic maintenance schedule that takes you through a new marine tank start-up, all the way to managing a mature reef aquarium.

Table of Contents: Reef Aquarium Maintenance

Maybe you want to jump ahead to the part of reef aquarium maintenance you’re struggling with (or the part you find the most interesting). You CAN do that, but the best recommendation if you want to keep a healthy tank is to read through the entire article. Then you can always bookmark it and return to the links you need a refresher on. Either way, I’ve broken down a simple reef aquarium maintenance schedule into the most basic pieces.

Water Testing

Some people love testing aquarium water. Others? They hate it. Either way, you gotta do it. To make sure I don’t forget this crucial piece of responsibility, I like to consider the testing part of my reef aquarium maintenance schedule. That way, I don’t give myself permission to slack on it. Keeping an eye on water quality prevents many problems before they cause significant trouble. And in the reef tank? Water issues can get out of hand within a few days.

Before you start groaning, take a deep breath. You’re not trying to pack daily testing into your schedule (not unless you’re struggling with problems). Most of the time? You only need to conduct weekly testing for your water parameters. And some of the lesser problematic components can go out to monthly tests. Not so difficult to build into a reef aquarium maintenance schedule when you think of it THAT way, right? So let’s take a look at the individual pieces one by one.

Weekly Testing

Some water parameters have immediate effects on the fish and invertebrates within your aquarium. As such, you need to keep an eye out for potential shifts a little more closely. Building weekly testing for these components into your reef aquarium maintenance schedule will ensure you stay on top of the water conditions and get your tank off on the right foot (fin?). Once you have a stabilized system, you can always back off a bit.

When you think of the parameters most likely to impact the health of the life in your tank, it makes sense to stay on top of these values. Even if you’re starting out with hardy species, you don’t want to stress their immune systems with crazy values of these water conditions:

• pH and alkalinity
• Calcium
• Ammonia and nitrite

 pH and Alkalinity

If you think about it, pH and alkalinity go hand in hand. Your reef tank’s pH is stabilized by the carbonate buffers dissolved in the saltwater. Alkalinity is the measure of those carbonates.

Saltwater mixes are formulated with adequate buffering to get your pH to that magic range of 8.2-8.4. However, natural processes in the tank produce acids that neutralize and use up the buffers. As corals and other encrusting marine life build their calcium carbonate skeletons, carbonates leave the water, Then the alkalinity declines. And, as alkalinity levels drop, you see the pH start to go down, too. Suddenly, the water grows intolerable – and not from anything more than natural processes you WANT to occur!

And if you’re not keeping an eye on these measurements as part of your reef aquarium maintenance schedule, you can miss the shift. Luckily, there’s an easy way to counterbalance a drop in pH and alkalinity – but it involves monitoring another key component every week.

 Calcium

When you build a reef aquarium, you want corals to thrive and grow. Growing means they need to remove calcium and carbonate (alkalinity) from the water to create their coral skeletons. Encrusting coralline algae will also use calcium and carbonate. Because calcium is tied to alkalinity, both will drop over time. And it’s normal and natural. But without a plan to counter the dip (and replenish it), you can end up with serious consequences for your corals – and your fish!

Calcium is measured with a calcium test kit, and it needs to get included with your reef aquarium maintenance schedule. When you’re getting a new saltwater aquarium started, I suggest testing pH, alkalinity, and calcium once a week for the first month or so. Write down the levels so you can see trends over time. You WILL see the alkalinity fluctuate up and down while the calcium remains relatively stable. This is normal. You’re looking for a trend where the alkalinity consistently declines. That’s your cue to intervene with the natural cycle.

Replenish the alkalinity (and the calcium) with a balanced calcium and alkalinity additive. Some aquarists buy a two-part product, some use lime water, and the hardcore reefers buy a calcium reactor. In all cases, the balanced replenishment will stabilize the pH, alkalinity, and calcium levels.

After a couple of months of this reef aquarium maintenance schedule, you can reduce your testing to once a month. This gives you time to know the rate of change in your tank and determine how often tests and replenishments should be made.

 Ammonia and Nitrite

When starting a new tank, it is ESSENTIAL (and educational) to track the rise and fall of ammonia and nitrite while you’re establishing the biological filter. This classic cycling period takes about 30 days. Monitoring during this phase often frustrates new aquarists. The levels can remain unchanged for days. Then, suddenly, ammonia and nitrite fall to zero. But without the incorporation of these tests into your reef aquarium maintenance schedule, you won’t know when you hit that crucial level. And until you have a cycled tank, any fish or invertebrates you decide to add probably won’t survive. It’s irritating but necessary.

Once the biological filter becomes fully active, testing for ammonia and nitrite can drop to once a month. You shouldn’t expect these levels to rise again – unless something goes wrong in the tank. If a fish or invertebrate dies or goes missing, begin testing to ensure water quality hasn’t shifted.

Intermittent Testing

You can certainly go for broke and add EVERYTHING to your reef aquarium maintenance schedule. But there are a couple of water parameters that should remain fairly stable – and less troublesome – for your aquarium. You don’t want to cross them off the list, though. Instead, you want to pop them on the calendar a little less frequently. Say, every other week – or even monthly. That isn’t to say they can’t pose an issue for your fish and invertebrates (they CAN), but you’ll drive yourself crazy waiting for your test to waver. Save the insanity and keep these on the back burner:

 Nitrate

Nitrate is the end product of biological filtration. Ammonia converts to nitrite, then nitrate. As the biological filter gets started, you’ll see nitrate gradually climb. This makes sense since a rise in nitrate shows things are working.

Once your reef aquarium maintenance schedule testing shows the tank’s cycled through, a water change is recommended to reduce the nitrate level. Nearly all reef keepers agree that keeping nitrate as low as possible is desirable. Many reef tanks remove nitrate naturally as they mature through biological denitrification. The bacteria living within the tank take the nitrate and process it down to nitrogen. The nitrogen bubbles then pop at the surface of the tank.

If you’ve got a nano reef, small water changes once a week are easy and help keep nitrate levels low. (You got it – this counts as part of your reef aquarium maintenance schedule. We’ll tackle water changes a bit more in a minute) Once your aquarium has been set up for a few months, you back off to testing nitrate once a month. As with ammonia and nitrites, though, if you notice absences, run a quick check.

 Phosphate

Phosphorus is an essential element in reef tanks and a complete nuisance. All living things require phosphorous to survive. It’s a waste product of metabolism, released into the aquarium from plants and animals. Excess phosphate within a marine aquarium will stimulate algae growth. Phosphate isn’t toxic, but it can interfere with coral growth by inhibiting the formation of the calcium skeleton. Calcium and phosphorous DON’T share well. So if you have high levels of phosphorous, your calcium will drop as a result.

We measure phosphorous with a phosphate test kit, and you want to break it out once a month. Make water changes or use phosphate-removing media to keep it under control.

Filter Maintenance

I’ll be honest:  I LIKE cleaning my aquarium filter. I like getting rid of dirty cartridges, clogged sponges, and slimy old chemical media. But I don’t like the mess I sometimes make in the sink or on the floor. This is precisely the reason so many people put off filter changes. Eventually, our canisters clog, our sumps become sludge pits, protein skimmers overflow with gunk, and our water quality suffers.

Here is the simple reef aquarium maintenance schedule remedy: If you have one, clean the filter an average of once a month! Check and clean your skimmer, too. (It’s probably easiest if you clean the skimmer each time you empty the skimmate cup. But if you don’t, do a thorough cleaning once a month). Put the reminder on your calendar. Set it as a recurring event on your computer or phone. Just do it. You’ll love how your fish and invertebrates perk up when the filter is clean, and the skimmer works properly.

Now, you CAN overdo the cleaning streak. Filters are where your beneficial bacteria reside (the ones eliminating the nitrates for you?). If you go overboard with your reef aquarium maintenance schedule, you’ll scrub those bacteria out of existence. Then you’ll have to cycle your tank all over again. That isn’t what you want. As such, take a look at the TYPE of filter you’re using. That will walk you through how often to break out your scrubbing brush:

• Canister Filters: As one of the most massive (and hefty) filter options out there, canisters can also handle the most “neglect.” (Now that isn’t permission) You only need to clean them every 3-4 months.
• HOB Filters: The filter media on HOBs usually only last around a month. Since you’re already going in there to change things out, schedule a cleaning at the same time.
• Sponge Filters: Sponges use mechanical and biological media. You need to keep everything running smoothly, so you’ll need to go in a little more frequently – every two weeks.

Water Changes

Water changes – hauling around (potentially) buckets of water from one spot in your house to another. It’s a chore people dislike, particularly if they have a monstrous aquarium to deal with. (Nano tanks don’t present quite the challenge) But if you don’t have this task on your reef aquarium maintenance schedule, you’re missing a key component.

Image Courtesy of Dieter_Karner

Changing water dilutes the natural organic compounds that build up in the aquarium. Unlike natural reefs, we don’t have tides to flush everything. By removing a portion of the tank and replacing it with clean water, you dilute excess nutrients such as phosphate and nitrate. Without that “flush,” you can end up with a build-up of those trace nutrients, which can stimulate algae growth.

Water changes also replenish trace elements used up by algae, corals, and other invertebrates. Many aquarists like to make a water change every two weeks. Some argue for frequent small water changes while others go for larger amounts – around 20% of the tank’s full volume. The choice is yours.

Out with the old, in with the new (clean) seawater!

For More Information

If you’re like me, you have some issues staying motivated and on schedule. A great way to develop your reef aquarium maintenance schedule is to use Google Calendar. I use it, and it’s made an incredible difference in my efficiency and productivity.

But if you need some extra help and motivation? These YouTube videos should do the trick:

Conclusion

My aquariums always look better when I keep up with simple reef aquarium maintenance scheduling. I find I’m more in tune with what’s happening in my reefs, too. I notice corals budding, or I can pluck out tufts of algae before they take over.

Sticking to a maintenance schedule actually reduces work. You won’t experience those. “Wow! My tank looks terrible!” emergency clean-up sessions.

So get busy and start enjoying your reef tank more!

Reef Beef – Episode 11 – 74 Degrees is the Magic Number

Reef Beef Podcast – Episode 11 – 74 Degrees is the Magic NumberThank you to our Sponsor https://www.SaltwaterAquarium.com?aff=20The Veterans, Military, and C…

Reef Beef Podcast – Episode 11 – 74 Degrees is the Magic Number

In this episode we talk to out guest Felicia McCaulley about Plastics & Reefkeeping, Sexual Harassment in the Marine Aquarium Industry, Seahorse Keeping, and Ben tells a story about Aquarium Servicing, Burritos, & Adult Films.

Taken from: Reef Beef – Episode 11 – 74 Degrees is the Magic Number

As senior editor here at reefs, I get to work with scientists from all over the world, and have made some wonderful friends in the industry. I also write for the site, and am the office manager at FRESH New London and the mother of two brilliant, talented young women.