A crystal-clear aquarium is a marvel that you can enjoy day and night, but imagine when your beautiful aquarium suddenly becomes covered in a slimy white residue that collects on the walls, plants, and fish. What do you do now? 

Your problem is the typical “white mold in aquarium,” and you need to urgently take action to fight and remove it from your beautiful tank. 

Here’s everything you need to know about treating white mold and preventing it for a clean tank.   

What Is White Mold in an Aquarium?

White mold is a type of fungus that spreads with microscopic spores. It can form in an aquarium when the conditions for its growth become favorable.

As soon as the conditions for its growth are met, it grows alarmingly. The fungus can grow on the walls of your aquarium, in the nooks and crannies of ornaments, on aquatic plants, on substrate, and on your fish.  

Without treatment, you will have to start your aquarium from scratch as a new aquarium. 

Signs of White Mold Formation in Your Aquarium

The obvious sign of white mold starting to infest your aquarium is the white or gray buildup on the surfaces of your aquarium. On your fish, it may show as white fluffy bits, usually around their eyes and gills. Your aquatic plants may develop a dull shine, which increases until they look gray or off-white. 

The water in your tank may also become cloudy and dull as the fungal spores spread in it, making your whole tank look dingy and gray. Your fish will also start to look lethargic, and some may develop health challenges such as swim bladder. 

White mold in your aquarium is serious, and you should take action immediately. 

Causes of White Mold Formation in an Aquarium

Knowing what could cause the white mold in your tank is the start of ensuring you can treat it, remove it, and avoid getting it again. You want to ensure you never make your aquarium a favorable place for white mold to thrive again. 

Here’s what causes white mold formation in an aquarium:  

Soiled Water

Dirty aquarium water (specifically with loads of nitrates from fish food and waste) is an instant “open door” to fungal infections. The fungi thrive when there are loads of contaminated water from which to draw nutrients. 

Poor Circulation 

When your tank water stands still for too long, such as when your filter doesn’t pump enough or it’s too small, it creates dead spots of water where the oxygen levels drop. Combine this with contaminated water, and you have a happy recipe for fungi to find a foothold.  

Excess Fish Food

You dirty the water when you feed your fish more than they can eat. Fish food is nutrient-dense, so it quickly increases ammonia, nitrates, and other elements in the water that boost the white mold’s growth needs.  

A Trojan Horse

We’re not discussing a historical event here, but the principle is the same. You can introduce white mold when you add any new element (water, plants, substrate, ornaments, or fish) to your tank.  

Like the legend, white mold can hide away on a seemingly harmless new addition to your aquarium and quickly contaminate your tank. 

Steps to Prevent White Mold Formation in Your Aquarium

Of course, the best step to prevent white mold from forming in your aquarium is never to let it near your aquarium, but you should also take care not to give it the conditions needed to grow. 

Here are some preventive steps to keep white mold out of your aquarium:  

• Test the Water Parameters

Your tank water may look clean, but regular testing can help you quickly identify when the water parameters aren’t ideal for your fish. Likewise, water testing allows you to see when the water parameters are becoming hazardous quickly. 

With testing strips, you can identify the volume of ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, and organic material in your tank. When you notice an increase in poor water parameters, take immediate steps to prevent white mold from forming. 

• Regular Cleaning and Filtration 

When the tank becomes soiled, it’s easier for the white mold spores to root and multiply. Cleaning your tank regularly and scraping your tank walls are the best ways to prevent white mold from taking hold. 

Your tank’s fish and plants require effective filtration, but you should clean your filter to continue offering good filtration. A blocked filter is an ideal place for spores to root. Replacing filter material and regularly cleaning your filter is an excellent way to prevent mold formation. 

• Strict Quarantine Protocols 

When you’ve purchased new plants, fish, or decorative elements, it’s tempting to add them straight to your tank, but this is often the main reason white mold and other diseases enter your tank. You must quarantine new tank additions to ensure that invisible mold spores aren’t currently on them. 

New fish should be added to a quarantine tank, and new plants should be rinsed thoroughly and quarantined for four to six weeks. If the fish show signs of illness or odd behavior, it could be a sign that they have been exposed to white mold spores or have another contagious disease. 

Never add any new addition to your tank immediately (even if it’s a plastic plant in a sealed packet). Any surface can carry white mold spores, so rinse it first. Organic or living things need to be quarantined. 

If you suspect mold may begin to attach to your fish, you may need to use a chemical or medicinal treatment, but you can (and should) also add the correct volume of aquarium salt to your tank, according to the fish you keep. 

A substantial water change (in some cases, even a 100% water change) can also prevent mold from forming (as soon as your water parameters go out of whack). 

Removing White Mold in Your Fish Tank

Okay, you missed the signs, and your tank is suddenly white and slimy and has white mold growing all over. It’s a disaster, right? Nope, it’s still salvageable. 

With the right treatment protocols, you can ensure you get all the mold under control and quickly reestablish your beautiful aquarium (mold-free). First, decide how serious the mold growth is and how extensively it’s spread. 

Now, decide which of the following steps are needed to clean your tank of all-white mold: 

General Cleaning

If the mold growth is less than 25% of your tank, it’s possible to implement the following measures to remove as much mold as possible without too much disruption to your aquarium. When mold no longer has ideal growing conditions, it will stop spreading and ultimately die. 

Perform a water change with a larger volume than your usual 15-20% water change. Ensure you only add non-chlorinated water to replace the water you drain. If there’s still water clouding that happens, you can perform a water change every couple of days, even going so far as a 50% water change. 

Check that the water added is at the same temperature, pH, and hardness as your tank water. 

Siphon the substrate in your aquarium daily, removing as much organic material, fish wastes, and microparticles as possible. Removing these will reduce the nutrients that mold needs to survive and reproduce. 

Learn more about siphons in our handy guide.

Clean the filter daily, replace filter pads as needed, and you may have to rinse filter balls and filter filament in water with 3% hydrogen peroxide before returning these to the filter. Of course, this does mean your filter may no longer offer biological filtration as your good bacteria colonies may perish. Luckily, you can replace these with store-bought filter bacteria. 

Use a cleaning kit to scrape the sides and remove any buildup or slimy residue that the white mold formed. To avoid cross-contamination, scrape from the bottom up, then wipe the scraper on a sterile rag or wipe. The goal is to remove mold deposits, not scrape them loose (which will spread the spores even faster). 

Remove your plants and rinse them in fresh water several times if they seem contaminated. In the worst cases, rinse them in water with a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution. 

Cleaning the Filter

In cases of severe mold growth, you will have to decontaminate your entire tank, starting with your filter. You must remove the filter from the tank, empty all filter material, and disconnect all tubing. 

Next, place the filter body and all filter tubing and components in a bucket with warm water and bleach or 6% hydrogen peroxide (never both). Let it soak for 20 minutes, then scrub with a soft brush. Rinse twice in clean, warm water. 

Note on Tubing: If your filter’s tubing is older and yellowed, it won’t be easy to clean it thoroughly, so consider replacing the tubing with new tubing. 

Allow to air dry. 

Now, reassemble your filter with fresh filter material. You may reintroduce filtration bacteria using a store-bought product. 

Substrate and Decoration Cleaning

Cleaning the aquarium substrate when your tank is heavily contaminated with white mold is a choice between replacing all the substrate with new substrate or removing the substrate and thoroughly rinsing it in warm water with a 6% hydrogen peroxide solution. 

Decorations can be cleaned like the tank filter with a warm water soak, rinse, and air dry.  

Fish Cleaning

Cleaning your fish can be challenging. You may need to remove them from the tank, place them in a smaller tank for quarantine, and administer an antifungal treatment. Adding aquarium salt to the quarantine tank is an excellent way to disinfect any raw spots on your fish and promote healing. 

It’s poorly recommended to remove any white mold spots forcefully. Still, some aquarium hobbyists recommend placing your fish in a higher-solution saltwater bath for a few minutes to remove more fungi. Of course, this is not always safe and could harm some fish species, so take care if you decide to take this route. 

Plant Cleaning

You must clean the plants in your aquarium of white mold and spores. If the plants have begun to rot, removing and discarding decaying plants may be advisable. 

Still, healthy plants need to be rinsed with a mild saltwater solution or sprayed down with a heavily diluted hydrogen peroxide solution. 

Pay special attention to the roots and growth nodes, where mold spores can lie in wait. Place the plants in a quarantine tank for four to six weeks to ensure no mold spores regrow. 

FAQs

Final White Mold Thoughts

Nobody likes to have any infection in their aquarium, but white mold can be tough to deal with if left untreated. The best solution is to inspect your aquarium frequently and test the water parameters often. Clean the tank filter, and never introduce new plants or fish to your aquarium without quarantining them for at least four to six weeks. 

Wash your hands before handling your fish, their food, the plants, or performing maintenance on your tank. You can avoid your tank developing white or aquarium mold with the correct precautions.  If the white mold has damaged the silicone in your aquarium, it may be time to scrape out the old and repair it with new silicone. Learn about the best and safest aquarium silicone in our guide.

Cichlids are bright tropical fish that make striking showcases in aquariums and tanks for hobbyists and aquarists. Their unique coloring, large variety of breeds, and feisty nature are all winning characteristics of these freshwater fish. But what are the pros and cons of choosing South American cichlids or African cichlids? Which is better?  

This handy guide will share all the best and most helpful information about South American and African cichlids so you can choose for yourself. 

What Are South American and African Cichlids?

Cichlids are a fish family with more than 2,000 distinct breeds currently classified. New cichlid species are constantly being discovered in the native waters of the Great Lakes in Africa and South America’s waterways. 

The theory is that cichlids were initially found on the supercontinent of Gondwana, which broke into our more familiar continents. The cichlids diversified and changed based on the conditions of the new continents. Today, you’ll find cichlids in South and Central America, India, Madagascar, and other African countries.  

The cichlid family of fish has a vast diversity, and you will never tire of looking at their bright colors, unique markings, and distinctive shapes. Cichlids come in a range of shapes, sizes, and patterns. The species also range in temperament from passive, happy-community tank dwellers to more aggressive and territorial species that require special planning when keeping. 

No two species of cichlids are identical, which makes choosing the cichlid species that’s right for your home aquarium quite a challenge.  

Which Should You Choose Between South American and African Cichlids: The Pros and Cons

Knowing which cichlid species is best for your tank is often a choice between the South American cichlid and the African cichlid (the two dominant cichlid species lines). 

To make the best and most informed decision, we have the pros and cons of both sides of the cichlid family tree.  

South American Cichlids Pros

You’ll find the South American cichlids in the warm, soft waters of the Amazon River. There are many different varieties of South American cichlids, including the angelfish, discus, and firemouth cichlids, and each offers stunning coloring, unique features, and a vibrant presence in your aquarium. 

Let’s look at the South American cichlid’s real pros:  

South American cichlids are available in various sizes, including large and dwarf fish, making them appealing to different hobbyists. With a smaller size, it is easier to transport the fish, they are often more affordable, and you can safely accommodate more than one breeding pair in a medium-sized tank.  

The different types of South American cichlids range in size from 24 inches to only an inch in length. With such a variety of sizes, you’re sure to find a cichlid that will fit your tank size. 

With the many different colors and patterns of your South American cichlids, you will never have a boring aquarium.  

There are over 300 classified South American cichlid types to enjoy a massive spectrum of hues, tones, and combinations. 

Most South American cichlids are naturally peaceful, though territorial behavior may crop up when kept in limited space. The larger cichlids may also become aggressive as they are often carnivorous. Smaller cichlids may follow an omnivorous diet, so they munch on plants instead of other fish in your tank. 

If you have a more aggressive cichlid species, choosing other cichlids as their tank mates is best. Most cichlids can become aggressive, and having more peaceful species in your tank helps limit bullying.  

When you have spent quite a bit on developing a cichlid tank, it’s a pleasure to learn that they have an extensive lifespan, with many easily living for 20 years in captivity. So, keeping South American cichlids is a life-long hobby.  

South American cichlids are great at entertaining. They have unique rituals and displays when it’s breeding season, and you’re sure to enjoy watching the males court the females and prepare a breeding area. Even the process of caring for their young is fascinating.  

The adults are very involved in hatching their eggs, and the female will carry the fertilized eggs in her mouth until they are ready to hatch. The parents will also guard over their young once hatched, helping them survive those first few weeks when they are most at risk of being eaten by other fish. 

• Unique and Interesting Facts

Your South American cichlids are truly interesting. Some can change color, while others can even change their sex (when certain conditions are met). The entire cichlid family tree hasn’t been mapped yet, and researchers are constantly discovering new species. 

And if you want to add even more variety to your tank, add some dwarf cichlids, which are softer in shape and almost squishy. 

African Cichlids Pros

If you want an even brighter pop of color in your tank, the African cichlid should be your first stop. These colorful, diverse, and unique cichlids are native to three African great lakes. You will find them in the wilds of Lake Victoria, Lake Malawi, and Lake Tanganyika. 

However, you don’t have to go on an African safari to catch some of these magnificent fish. They are also wild-bred, and many of the more popular types of African cichlids are available from quality aquatic dealers. 

Let’s look at some of their pros:

African cichlids are more hardy than their South American cousins. They are known to be more resilient and can tolerate a broader range of water parameters. If you are a newbie at tropical fish management, then opting for an African cichlid is an excellent choice. 

Since African cichlids are omnivorous, they will eat anything, making them good casual feeders. If the other tank mates only eat live feed, you don’t have to worry, as they will also happily gobble up the shrimps and other live treats. They will also thrive on fresh veggies and plant-based feed. 

Because African cichlids are generally bigger than South American cichlids, they make a stunning display in a large tank. If you want to keep a medium tank with an attractive cichlid or two, there are African cichlids that are medium-sized and ideal.  

However, ensure you choose a suitable variety of African cichlids as some of these cichlids can reach a size of 36 inches, meaning that you may need a bigger tank. Most African cichlid varieties reach a fairly big size, and with their territorial nature, you’d have to ensure they have enough room to avoid bullying.  

Aquarists know that one of the main issues with tropical fish is their tolerance to water hardness. Since African cichlids are adapted to the mineral-rich water of the Great Lakes in Africa, they are more resilient to hard water. 

Many states in the U.S. are known for mineral deposits in their water supply, making it challenging to use tap water to refill your aquarium or do water changes. Luckily, with African cichlids, you have a much wider range of water hardness parameters to use.  

• They Do Well in Small Groups

African cichlids don’t always mix well, but as long as you add them to the tank at the same time, they can learn to co-exist peacefully with other cichlid species or much larger fish. Cichlids are known to be territorial, so prevent aggression by maintaining a healthy ratio of 1 male to 3 females in smaller tanks. 

South American Cichlids Cons

Of course, no two fish species are equally ideal for your tank, and each has their cons, too. The South American cichlid has a few points that may influence your decision to get them or not. 

Here are a few cons that affect the South American cichlid:  

•  Less Adaptable to Water Parameters

Because the South American cichlids are used to softer water in the Amazonian basin, they don’t adapt as well when regular tap water is used in their tanks. Even if you remove the usual chemicals like chlorine, the water may still not be soft enough. This can mean the costly expense of using water filtered with reverse osmosis, creating a more neutral water type that’s better for these fish.   

South American cichlids aren’t as hardy as their African cichlid cousins. They may be more prone to diseases that affect tropical fish. 

Ich, fungal infections, and bacterial infections are common among South American cichlids as they are much more sensitive to changes in their water parameters. Hole-in-the-head disease and bloat are also often a problem if their living conditions aren’t ideal.  

With their slightly more volatile nature, South American cichlids can be aggressive and territorial in a community tank. While they’re not as aggressive as African cichlids, you should take care with South American cichlids to keep them in the right school sizes and match them with less aggressive, hardy fish to minimize bullying.  

African Cichlids Cons

African cichlids may be hardy, resilient, and more adaptable to changes in their water conditions, but they also have a few cons that affect them. Consider these cons:

Since African cichlids are quite territorial (more so than the South American cichlids), it’s often better to keep them isolated in small groups, as they can quickly begin to bully other fish in community tanks.  

While it’s always nice to see your fish grow big and strong, the overall size potential of some African cichlids may mean they can outgrow your tank, causing you to have to upscale. This can be an unanticipated cost.  

African cichlids are more hardy than South American cichlids, but they still suffer from typical tropical fish diseases like ich, fungal and bacterial infections, and bloat. Feed appropriately, stock their tank with aquatic plants so that they won’t gobble up, and maintain the best water parameters to prevent disease.  

When you’ve paid a hefty sum for rare aquatic plants, seeing your new African cichlid uproot plants and damaged roots is devastating. Sadly, African cichlids can be destructive to aquatic plants. You must ensure the roots are well-secured when keeping them in a planted aquarium.  

Discover the most detailed information about the Texas cichlid, the only cichlid native to North America. 

Best Cichlid for Large Tanks

Cichlids can work well in most tanks if you choose a variety that won’t outgrow the tank. More space is always better, but African cichlids are a great choice if you have a huge tank and don’t want to keep multiple schools of cichlids. 

Choose from varieties like the lionhead cichlid, bumblebee cichlid, and the popular electric yellow cichlid for your large tank. Remember that each cichlid requires enough space, and in a 40-gallon tank, you should have no more than 1 to 2 males and 3 to 4 females. 

Best Cichlid for Small Tanks

You can keep certain African cichlid varieties in smaller tanks, but South American cichlids would be a better bet for a smaller tank space. As a rule, it’s 30 gallons for the first cichlid, with an additional three gallons per extra cichlid. 

Remember to calculate your tank space based on the adult size the cichlids may reach. 

Best Cichlid for Hard Water

African cichlids are used to the mineral-rich water of the Great Lakes in Africa. Some aquarists believe in adding Malawi salt (Cichlid Lake Salt or Malawi/Victoria Buffer) to simulate their natural water parameters better. If you live in a state with hard water, keeping African cichlids over South American cichlids is a safer bet. 

If the water pH and temperature are optimal and harmful chemicals like chlorine have been removed, your African cichlid should survive in tap water.  

Best Cichlid for Soft Water

The Amazon is known for the soft water created by the ecosystem’s decaying vegetation and unique minerals. If you live in an area with soft water, you can likely keep South American cichlids, but some varieties of African cichlids will also adapt.  

Best Cichlid for Planted Aquarium

If you have a planted aquarium, South American cichlids are better suited. While they may forage extensively on plants, they are less likely to uproot plants than African cichlids. 

Adding a few African cichlids is a better choice for a stone or gravel aquarium. 

Discover how to keep your aquarium fish from becoming ill in our tips guide.

FAQs

Final Cichlid Thoughts

Cichlids are hugely popular tropical freshwater fish. They are ideal for aquariums that have been carefully prepared for them. Choose between the South American vs African cichlids by considering the pros and cons of each species and variants. 

For a cichlid-only tank, adding the African cichlid works well, and you’ll have more room for water tolerances if you live in a hard water area. However, if you want to add a few cichlids to a community tank, the friendlier and smaller South American variants are better options. 

As always, you should research the type of cichlid you’d like to add to your aquarium before purchasing so you can perfectly match their pH, temperature, and water hardness requirements with the other community fish. 

Enjoy your vibrant and colorful cichlid tank! Learn about the benefits of live aquarium plants in our handy guide. 

When you have your own tropical fish tank, it can be challenging to successfully get your fish to breed and nurse the young fish past those first few crucial weeks. Knowing how to take proper care of tropical fish babies or fry is essential if you want to have thriving young fish. 

Yet, with careful preparation and knowledge, you can enjoy a vibrant tank at home with breeding pairs and baby tropical fish.   

How to Correctly Care for Tropical Fish Babies

To care for tropical fish babies, you must create the best water parameters, ensure plenty of hiding spots to protect the young fish from predators (including their own parents), and feed a high-protein meal in the correct quantities to ensure optimal growth. 

But let’s learn more about caring for tropical fish babies. 

Discover a range of freshwater and tropical fish for your aquarium in our guide.

What Do Tropical Fish Babies Need to Survive?

You may feel overwhelmed when you have a few fish babies hatching in your tropical tank. After all, those new fish babies are so small that it may seem challenging to ensure their safety and feed them so they can grow big and strong. 

To make it simple, we encourage people to focus on the basics. Meeting the essential needs of your tropical fish babies can help ensure they survive. 

Learn more about how to stop fish from becoming ill with our handy tips.

Here are the five top elements to check before your fish gives birth, and also while tropical fish babies are small and need care. 

1. The Water Parameters

Incorrect water parameters are among the first things that can kill your tropical fish babies. Your fish, whether adults or young, need constant water temperatures, the proper water pH and water hardness levels, and a steady chemical composition to the water. 

Ensure your breeding pairs have the correct water temperatures for their specific species. Not all tropical fish enjoy the same basic 75℉ to 80℉ temperature waters (using a thermometer is essential). Some prefer warmer temperatures, while others want slightly cooler water temperatures to have their babies in. 

It is important to ensure your tropical fish babies have the same constant water temperature as they were hatched or spawned in. 

The water pH has to be at the acidity that the species of tropical fish prefer. A pH of 5-8 is usually the spectrum for tropical fish, but again, one species will thrive in a 5 pH water, while the other will only survive. Know your tropical fish breed requirements. 

Finally, the water hardness is also an important consideration. Some tropical fish prefer softer water, while others enjoy harder water types. The average is 4 to 12 dKH, but the ideal water hardness will ensure your tropical fish babies have healthy skin and fins and develop according to their breed standards. 

The most important thing with the water parameters is maintaining the same temperature, pH, and water hardness (which should be the optimal range for your tropical fish species) to prevent your fish babies from becoming stressed and not growing well. 

Also Read: Breeding Livebearing Fish

2. Water Filtration Requirements 

When you keep fish, they make a lot of waste. Urine, fish poop, and leftover fish food can all add to the water content, causing disease and making your baby fish sick. The fish tank must have a filter system to keep the water healthy and remove waste. 

A serious consideration with a tank that has small fish or fry is that the filter has to be fitted with a sponge cover to prevent the filter from sucking up your tropical fish babies. A too-powerful filter that blasts water from the outlet into the tank will also damage delicate young fish. 

For this reason, fry are often separated into a smaller floating tank chamber where they are protected from the strong current and being sucked up into the filter. 

Another aspect of water quality and filtration is the weekly water changes. While you may have gotten away with adding new water to your tank that’s a few degrees colder than your tropical fish adults prefer, your fry will quickly have an adverse reaction and die. So ensure you add heated water (at the correct temperature) when doing a water change.

The weekly water changes are vital to ensure your fry has a steady supply of fresh water and dilute the effect of any potentially harmful contaminants in the tank. A good rule is to change out 15-20% of the water with fresh, filtered water.  

3. Good Hiding Spots from Predators and Adult Fish

The main cause of death in young fry is being eaten by other fish. Most fish are opportunistic feeders and will happily gobble up a tasty, protein-rich fry. Even their own offspring are considered fair game by many fish species. 

For this reason, fish babies instinctively hide among porous rocks, reefs, aquatic plants, and other larger substrate elements. A tank with no hiding spots will soon be without fish babies. 

Consider adding some tropical fish-friendly plants like java moss, which offer many excellent hiding spots for young fish. 

If you have no hiding spots in your tank or don’t want to lose any tropical fish babies to predation, the best bet is to move the pregnant female to a breeding tank or chamber a few days before she gives birth or lays eggs. Once the young are born, you can gently scoop the mom back into the main tank and then ensure you provide enough food to the young fry. 

Some fish species have exceptional parental care; in this case, the male or female fish will care for their young. So you don’t want to remove them from the tank as the baby fish need their parents to help them grow. 

Also Read: Badis Badis: Full Care Guide, Breeding, Tank Size & Diseases

4. Feeding Requirements for Young Tropical Fish

When tropical fish eat well, they grow fast and reach their full potential. Young, growing fish need a balanced diet, and while your instinct may be to feed protein-rich meals, other nutrients are also vital. 

Consider getting the best possible tropical fish food appropriate for fry and young fish. These foods are loaded with vitamins for healthy immune development, calcium for bone and scale growth, and protein for energy to grow steadily. 

Never overfeed tropical fish babies, but feed regular meals (usually three to four meals per day) at the same intervals. So, if you feed your fry at 6 a.m., 10 a.m., 1 p.m., and 6 p.m., you should stick to the exact feeding times each day to ensure a steady food intake with some time to digest properly. 

Never feed your fish more than they can eat in a few minutes to prevent bloating and stop excess food from rotting and contaminating the water.   

5. Medical Needs of Tropical Fish Fry

While you hope your fry will be healthy and quickly grow up to be beautiful tropical fish like their parents, there is often the chance that they may become sick, get infected with contagious diseases, and die. 

To prevent illness and ensure they thrive, you may need to keep a few medications on hand to administer as soon as you notice any signs of disease. 

Look for signs like fins rotting, white fluff forming on their scales, bloody growths around their mouths and eyes, weight loss, or misshapen bodies. When your fry becomes dull and doesn’t look energetic, it could also be an early warning sign that something is amiss.    

Not all fish diseases are easily treated, so your best cure is to prevent infection. Ensure your fish have ideal water parameters and that the water is well-filtered to remove decaying organic material, which could cause bacteria to breed. 

If you add new fish to your tank, first quarantine them to ensure no unwanted parasites like lice, worms, and fungi are present on them. Likewise, quarantine your new aquatic plants, too, as these can also transfer contaminated materials to your tank. 

When needed, you can use medication to treat fungal infections and ich. Some medications may prove too harmful for new fry, so avoiding problems before they start is much better. 

Preparing to Care for Your Tropical Fish Fry

Your breeding pair has surprised you with a hatching of eggs, or new babies have just spawned, and you suddenly have to take measures to ensure the fry will survive and thrive. 

How do you prepare to care for your tropical fish fry? Here are a few steps to take:

• Determine the species of eggs or fry. This will help you decide whether to remove the offspring from the tank or if the parents need to be isolated along with the fish. 
• Test your water parameters to ensure these are at optimal levels. If you have the facilities near you, it’s worth having a water sample tested at a professional lab, which will tell you exactly how much nitrates, organic matter, and potential contaminants your tank water currently has. 
• Isolate the young fish from the rest of the tank’s occupants. If you have a dense underwater planted tank, you’ll find the fry will survive fairly well. However, if you have limited plants or your fish are relatively expensive, you may not want to risk them getting eaten – which is the number one cause of death in young fish. 

If you can’t remove them from the tank, cordon off a section with acrylic dividers or install a breeding tank inside the main tank. 

• Create a daily record of when you feed the fry, what time, how much food, and any changes you notice. Observe the fry during feeding time to ensure all fish eat and have equal opportunity to get to food. Smaller or weaker fry may not always get to eat, so you may need to feed them individually until the more vulnerable fish get stronger. 

Learn more African Leaf Fish

Dangers to Your Tropical Fish Fry and Solutions

Knowing the main dangers to your tropical fish fry is how you can head off disaster and ensure your baby fish reaches adulthood. 

Here are some common dangers to watch out for, as well as solutions to help you cover all bases: 

Sucked into the Filter

Fry are small and not very strong swimmers yet, so they can easily get sucked into the filter or get washed away by the water return, which leads to shredded fins, hitting obstacles, and injury. 

Solution: Change the filter to a sponge filter or add an intake sponge to cover the filter intake. You can also add a filter bag over the filter to prevent fish from being sucked up.

Eaten by Larger Fish

Adult fish will often eat anything, including small fry. Even the fry’s own parents may gobble them up as they hatch or spawn.

Solution: Add a section of coral reef, driftwood, or soft water plants to provide hiding spots for the fry. Take care not to feed the adults near the fry at feeding time. 

Regular Feeding Schedule

Fry need a constant supply of nutrients, which should be evenly spread throughout their day. When you miss a feeding session, the fry may panic and become stressed, leading to weakened immunity and death. 

Solution: Use an automated feeder to ensure regular feeding sessions if you can’t be home daily at feeding time. 

Illness and Disease

Tropical fish are sensitive to water parameters, so if the tank temperature, pH, water hardness, or clarity has a significant variance, the fry will become stressed, which affects their digestion and immunity. They are more susceptible to infections, fungi, and parasites. 

Solution: Ensure optimal water parameters are maintained by using an automated thermometer, regularly testing the tank pH and water hardness, and ensuring adequate filtration. 

FAQs

Final Fish Fry Rearing Thoughts

Knowing how to properly care for tropical fish babies is vital to a successful breeding program. But even if you let nature take its course, watching the adult fish gobble up the small fry is still upsetting. Therefore, knowing how to ensure the baby tropical fish are safe, fed, and thriving is important for the hobbyist aquarist. 

Have you had tropical fish babies in your tank? How did you take care of them, and what dangers did you face in your tank’s setup? Let us know in the comments section.  

Learn how to create a planted carpet for your fry to hide in with our handy guide.

While you may delay it, death in your aquarium is inevitable. Some of your fish are expected to perish within a few days of their introduction to the tank, whether due to accidents or natural reasons. Besides, numerous other reasons contribute to the overall reduced lifespan of aquarium fish. 

However, individual deaths are not as alarming as mass mortality. While you should also investigate lone deaths to prevent them from happening in the future, consecutive fish deaths are more terrifying. 

In this article, we’ll discuss why your fish die untimely and unnatural deaths. Whenever you’ve come across unfortunate deaths in your tank, investigate the issue by referring to this article.

Top 10 Reasons Why Your Fish Keep Dying

1. Improper Water Parameters

Different species of fish have unique preferences over water parameters. For instance, tropical fish flourish in distinct water parameters compared to cichlids. Even among their species, variations may occur in their requirements that need to be carefully maintained.

Whilst housing the compatible species together, a few water parameters that you need to monitor and manipulate when required are: 

pH Level

A subset of fish species prefer acidic environments, while others thrive in more alkaline waters. Species-specific optimum pH levels ensure that your fish can perform basic physiological functions without hindrance. This includes proper gill function, enzyme activity, and osmoregulation. 

Apart from those, ammonia toxicity and nutrient availability also partially depend on pH levels. 

However, sudden pH changes or pH spikes are more fatal to your fish than a prolonged minute deviation. The most common reasons behind the same are: 

• Overstocking. An overcrowded tank will produce more waste and consume more oxygen while breaking down—lowering the pH level.
• Inefficient filtration also allows organic matter to decompose in the tank, causing pH spikes. 
• Amateurish water changes, disregarding dechlorination, pH stabilization, and temperature synchronization, can raise or lower your tank’s pH levels in an instant. 
• Certain decorations and new substrates can alter pH levels pretty fast. 
• Rapid plant growth can strip your tank water off of CO2, which may lead to a higher pH. 
• Certain medications and additives can also manipulate the pH levels. 

Constantly monitor pH levels in your tank and use commercial pH products to maintain the proper levels. 

Water Hardness

Maintaining both general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (KH) is vital to sustaining a healthy aquatic environment. GH is the measure of dissolved minerals, including calcium and magnesium, which support the growth and well-being of both plants and fish. 

On the other hand, KH measures the carbonate and bicarbonate content in your tank. 

The primary reason to maintain water hardness is that a species-specific optimum water hardness stabilizes the pH levels and provides essential minerals to plants and fish. Your fish, especially those that are naturally reliant on hard water, such as cichlids, will suffer in softer waters. 

Another factor to consider is that fish inhabiting soft water may be susceptible to bacterial infections unique to hard water environments and vice versa. These infections may arise due to differences in water chemistry, and the fish may lack cellular-level resistance to these specific pathogens.

Water Temperature

A stable and optimum water temperature is necessary to sustain the physiological activities of aquatic creatures. Being cold-blooded, their metabolism depends on the environmental temperature, and their internal organs may cease to function properly outside the optimal range. 

Even if you strive to maintain an optimal temperature, water changes may cause a spike and introduce temperature shock to your fish. Always follow these tips to avoid the same: 

• Invest in a good quality thermometer. 
• Choose the right heater suitable for your aquarium. A general rule of thumb is to use 1 watt of power for every 2 gallons of water. 
• Install the thermometer strategically along the filters and air pump.
• Perform regular water changes when the temperature has risen to an exorbitant degree. 
• Avoid massive water changes that can cause temperature spikes in the tank. 
• Regulate the temperature of the new water being introduced to the tank. 

Additionally, you may insulate your tank, keep your tank indoors, and turn off lights at night to manipulate water temperatures. 

Oxygen Levels

Dissolved oxygen is critical to the survival of your beloved fish and plants. Depending on the fish species, the minimum oxygen level may vary, but if you don’t have plants in the tank, there is no need to regulate the same. For planted tanks, you may consider CO2 injection for supplementation. 

Typically, oxygen dissolves in water through direct absorption. Therefore, air pumps and increased surface agitation often levitate dissolved oxygen to healthy levels. Consider running the pumps 24/7 to achieve the best results. 

2. Poor Water Quality

Moving on from water parameters, your fish may also have been dying due to poor water quality, especially regarding ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in the tank. We’ll discuss them in brief and a few more elements that may be contaminating your tank. 

Ammonia

• Source: Fish waste, uneaten food, decaying organic matter.
• Harm: Highly toxic to fish, even in small amounts. Disrupts respiration, damages gills, and can lead to ammonia poisoning.

Nitrite

• Source: Breakdown of ammonia by bacteria.
• Harm: Can interfere with oxygen uptake in fish blood, causing stress, respiratory problems, and even death.

Nitrate

• Source: Further breakdown of nitrite by bacteria.
• Harm: In excessive amounts, nitrate can promote algae growth, reduce oxygen levels, and suppress the immune system of fish, making them more susceptible to diseases.

Chlorine and Chloramines

• Source: Often found in tap water used for water changes.
• Harm: These disinfectants can kill beneficial bacteria in the aquarium and damage fish gills, leading to stress and respiratory problems.

Heavy Metals

• Source: Can be present in tap water, from plumbing fixtures, or contaminated decorations.
• Harm: Can accumulate in fish tissue over time, causing organ damage, reproductive problems, and even death.

Fertilizers

• Source: Supplementary nutrients for plants, consisting of CO2, minerals, and nitrate. 
• Harm: Can be highly toxic to fish and disrupt the aquarium’s ecosystem.

3. Overfeeding or Underfeeding

Feeding portions and frequency determine the overall well-being of your tank’s inhabitants. Inexperienced aquarists often confuse the love of fish with a certain food with hunger and overfeed them. You may also underestimate their nutrient requirement and underfeed or feed them the wrong type of food. 

In dedicated tanks, where you’ve kept a single species, you can pretty effortlessly strike the right balance of diet and feeding routine. But, when it comes to community tanks, it’s challenging to cater to the needs of each inhabitant. You may overfeed some and underfeed others. 

Risks of overfeeding involve: 

• Water quality issues. Excess food decomposes and releases ammonia, poisoning the fish. Excessive ammonia production also overwhelms the bacteria colonies. 
• Digestive problems. Consuming food more than necessary can overload your fish’s digestive system and cause bloating, constipation, and organ damage. 
• Obesity. Fish are also susceptible to obesity and obesity-related diseases. 
• Algae growth. Uneaten food promotes algae growth, depleting oxygen in the tank and harming the overall ecosystem. 

Risks of underfeeding involve: 

• Nutrient deficiency: Without adequate food, fish won’t get the essential nutrients they need to grow, develop, and maintain their health. This can lead to stunted growth, weakened immune systems, and increased susceptibility to diseases.
• Muscle loss: When deprived of food, fish will start to break down their muscle tissue for energy. This can make them appear emaciated, weak, and lethargic.
• Reproductive problems: Undernourished fish may struggle to reproduce successfully. They may produce fewer eggs or sperm, or the offspring may be weak and have lower chances of survival.

Pay attention to your fish’s behavior, appetite, and appearance. Any noticeable changes could be indicative of health issues. 

Also Read: What Can You Feed Fish Other Than Fish Food?

4. Incompatible Tank Mates

Most of your fish are possibly captive-bred and lack any skills (or space) to avert predation. Beginner aquarists often lay the claim of tank aggression on “natural balance”, which ultimately harms both the predator and prey in the long run. 

I used to wonder why my rainbow minnows were disappearing until I saw the turtle hunting them frantically at night. My inability to house compatible species can’t be laid upon their instincts. 

If you’re keeping a dedicated tank, consider studying their tank requirements and social behaviors. Some fish species prefer company, while others thrive in solitude. 

In community tanks, provide enough space according to fish species and house only species that are non-aggressive towards each other. Provide enough nutrients and keep water parameters stable to reduce competition and stress. 

Also Read: The Freshwater Aquarium Water Guide

5. Disease or Parasites

Lack of proper quarantine routine, poor water quality, and improper water parameters can introduce diseases and parasites in the aquarium. If you live-feed your carnivorous fish, the feeder fish may also contribute to the overall pathogen scenario of the tank. 

Let’s discuss strategies that can minimize the risk: 

• Regular water changes remove waste products like ammonia and nitrite, which can weaken your fish’s immune system and attract harmful bacteria. Aim for at least 10-25% water changes weekly.
• Invest in an adequate filter suitable for your tank size and fish population. Maintain it regularly by cleaning the filter media and ensuring proper water flow. However, don’t kill off the beneficial bacteria while maintaining. 
• As mentioned, regularly test your water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and temperature. Adjust any parameters that fall outside the ideal range for your fish species.
• Quarantine new fish and plants before introducing them to your main tank. Quarantine them for at least two weeks in a separate tank. This helps prevent the introduction of diseases or parasites. 
• Pay close attention to your fish’s behavior, appetite, and appearance. Any changes could indicate stress or illness, which can make them more susceptible to pathogens. Isolate them once you’ve noticed physical or behavioral changes. 
• Overcrowding increases stress and waste production, making your aquarium more vulnerable to outbreaks. Maintain a healthy livestock density based on your tank size and fish species.
• Select fish from reputable sources that maintain good hygiene and quarantine practices.
• Avoid overfeeding. Uneaten food decomposes, adding to the organic waste and creating a breeding ground for pathogens.

6. Stress

Environmental stress can weaken the immune system and make your fish susceptible to diseases. Sudden fluctuation of water parameters, aggressive tank mates, and inadequate hiding spots may introduce stress to the tank.

7. Improper Acclimatization

Acclimating your fish properly increases their survival rate and ensures a healthy introduction to the tank. Here’s a step-by-step guide to acclimating your fish: 

Preparation

• Temperature Matching: Float the unopened bag containing your fish in your aquarium for about 20-30 minutes. 
• Oxygenate the Bag: Ensure proper oxygenation throughout the acclimation process. Use an airstone or gently agitate the bag with your hand every 10-15 minutes.

Water Adjustment

• Open the Bag: After temperature matching, carefully open the bag.
• Add Tank Water: Over the next 15-30 minutes, slowly add small amounts of your aquarium water to the bag, diluting the bag water by about 50%. Repeat this process every 15-30 minutes for another 1-2 hours. 

Netting and Introduction

• Net the Fish: Gently net the fish from the bag and avoid using a net with a fine mesh that could damage their fins.
• Turn off Lights: Turn off your aquarium lights to reduce stress for the newly introduced fish.
• Release the Fish: Release the fish directly into the aquarium, allowing them to adjust to the new environment at their own pace. 

8. Poor Tank Maintenance

Poor tank maintenance, including thorough cleaning of bio-media, bleaching the substrate, and massive water changes, can reduce the lifespan of your fish to a great extent. Ensure that you understand the proper routines and can apply them during maintenance. Depending on the type of tank you have, the routines may vary slightly.

9. Toxic Plants and Substances

While you may not find them in the stores, some plants collected in the wild can be toxic to your fish.  Most of these are flowering plants and are known for their attractive foliage. A few examples may include: 

• Dumb Cane
• Devil’s Ivy
• Peace Lily
• Philodendron

In contrast, toxic substances, such as lead, mercury, and copper, can be found in aquarium decorations sold in stores. These toxic substances, mostly heavy metals, seep into the water and cause massive damage to the gills and internal organs of the fish. 

Learn About Snail Eggs: Complete Care Guide

10. Genetic Predisposition

Usually a result of careless breeding practices, some fish are genetically predisposed to diseases. This issue is typically mitigated by sourcing your fish from reputable breeders. But these are the cases that you can’t control and have to accept and move on. 

FAQs

The Bottom Line

We’ve discussed the reasons why your fish keep dying and have listed a few mitigation strategies that may help you overcome the crisis. In most cases, monitoring the water parameters and taking proper precautionary measures promote an overall healthy aquarium with happy inhabitants.

Despite buying a premium tank or building it yourself, leaks can occur at times. It doesn’t matter whether the leak develops due to a mechanical fault or an integrity issue, you need to fix it as soon as possible. Smallest, negligible leaks often evolve into larger issues if not addressed on time. 

As you’re here, you might’ve just found a leak, small or large, in your aquarium and are hoping for a quick solution before repairing the leak professionally or replacing the tank. In this article, we’ll go through the step-by-step process of finding the issue, assessing the damage, taking temporary solutions, and fixing the leak. 

Identifying the Leak

Reducing water levels in aquariums is natural through evaporation and biological usage, but rapid lowering of the same may occur due to leakage. Aquarium leaks are often subtle enough to not be detected unless the leak has grown to a problematic size.

Here are a few signs that you should be aware of: 

Signs of a Leaking Aquarium

An aquarium with a massive crack or leak wouldn’t require identification. But, if you’re still wondering why your tank is losing water abnormally, consider going through these steps to find the culprit: 

• Roam your hands around the tank and feel for any unusual wetness around the seams and the stand. If a wet or leaking spot is found, wipe it dry and see if it re-dampens. Move around to ensure there aren’t multiple leaks. 

• If you can’t track the water back up to the tank seams, the leaks may also be at the bottom and from an invisible crack. 

• If there’s a visible crack on the glass, wipe it dry and see if a leakage has occurred.

• In case the tank isn’t leaking, inspect the equipment, such as the filters, for overflow. They may clog up if not cleaned up in a while. Typically, HOB filters are more prone to overflowing than canister filters. 

As a precautionary measure, put towels on the floor where the water is flowing to avoid any physical damage occurring to you while moving around. 

Tools Needed for Inspection

A few tools that you may need to inspect for a leakage include: 

A flashlight will illuminate the darker corners and allow you to inspect the areas behind the equipment. It’ll also allow you to identify a leak hidden beneath the substrate. 

You may use a paper towel to wipe along the seams, joints, and around the base to look for moisture or water trails. Paper towels are much more effective in this regard than using your hands. 

If it’s visibly leaking a lot, you want to store the treated aquarium water in buckets to move your fish and plants temporarily to them. You also need to move the decorations and keep running the filters to save the beneficial bacteria. 

A mirror could help you get a closer look at suspicious areas like behind decorations and under the gravel. 

Once a leak has been found, you need to enforce a rapid turn of events that first safeguard the livestock and, secondly, repair the leak. 

Temporary Solutions

Your livestock are the priority whenever a leak occurs. If the breach is allowing you enough time to prepare, here are a few things that you need to perform. 

Assessing the Damage

Not all leaks are the same. A crack in the glass is much more critical than a pinhole leak on the seam. Once you’ve found the source of it, you need to assess the damage to strategize a countermeasure. 

If the leak is due to filter overflow or a loose screw, the easy fix is to clean or replace the unit, whatever is more appropriate. For now, you may either try to resolve the issue or disconnect the unit from the circulation. However, keep the filter media in tank water to ensure the survival of the beneficial bacteria. This is among the reasons why aquarists have multiple filters in their tanks. 

In more serious cases, assess the extent of the damage and roughly calculate how much time you may have. If you’re observing a rapid decline in water levels, you need to act fast and follow the next steps.

Emptying the Aquarium Safely

As mentioned, your fish and plants are of utmost priority. Collect the aquarium water in buckets or tubs suitable for your fish and plants. Better if you have a spare tank for emergencies. Drop everything, including the substrate and filter media, in the buckets or the tank. 

It’s recommended to keep the water flow running and the filter media active despite reorientation. Be careful when using filters in smaller tanks, as they may overpower and suck in smaller fish and leaves. 

Once the leaked tank is dry enough, inspect it for structural integrity. As we’ll be resealing the tank, find out any other potential leakage spots and weaker bonds. Afterwards, follow the procedures mentioned below to repair the tank. 

Evaluating Equipment for Damage

Some equipment, such as lighting systems and heaters, may get damaged due to the leaked water. Consider inspecting them carefully and evaluating if they’re operational and are safe to be reintroduced to the tank. 

If you’re not confident about their operability anymore or are frightened to zap your livestock, replace them while repairing the tank.   

Repairing the Leak

Repairing your leaked tank requires a few materials and knowledge. Here is how to do it: 

Materials Required for Repair

Depending on the extent of the damage and location of the leak, required materials may include: 

This is the absolute must-have for fixing most leaks. Make sure it’s specifically labeled for aquarium use and safe for fish. Look for “100% silicone” and “fungicide-free” on the label.

A single-edge razor blade is ideal for removing old silicone and cleaning the area before applying new sealant.

This will help clean and degrease the surfaces before applying new silicone. Use after removing the residual old silicone. 

You’ll need plenty of these for cleaning, wiping, and applying pressure during the repair process.

This makes applying the silicone sealant much easier and more precise. Ensure that you’ve got the appropriate-sized silicone sealant to use with the caulking gun. 

• A PVC card (credit/debit card)

A PVC card will help you smoothen the seams out after application. However, you may also use the razor blade for the same.

If the leak is on a crack or chip in the glass, you might need epoxy to fill it in before applying silicone. Make sure it’s aquarium-safe.

For very small cracks or hairline fractures, a tiny dab of cyanoacrylate glue can be a temporary fix until you can do a proper repair. Again, ensure it’s aquarium-safe.

This can help mask off areas you don’t want to get silicone on when applying it. 

Additionally, gloves, masks, and UV lights may help you stay safe and accelerate the process. 

Patching Small Cracks

Hairline cracks can be fixed with epoxy and super glue. Consider using silicone over it for a more permanent solution. 

• Prepare the Surface: Use sandpaper to gently roughen the area around the crack. This will help the epoxy adhere better to the surface.

• Clean the Area: Wipe the area with a clean, damp cloth to remove any dust or debris.

• Mix Epoxy: Follow the instructions on the epoxy packaging to mix the epoxy resin and hardener thoroughly. Be sure to wear gloves during this process.

• Apply Epoxy: Use a small brush or spatula to apply the mixed epoxy over the crack. Ensure that the epoxy covers the entire crack and extends slightly beyond it to create a strong bond.

• Allow to Cure: Follow the curing time mentioned in the epoxy instructions. Keep the aquarium in a well-ventilated area during this time.

• Test for Leaks: After the epoxy has fully cured, fill the aquarium with water and monitor for any leaks. If there are no leaks, you can proceed with refilling the aquarium.

• Apply Silicone: Get a small-sized aquarium-safe silicone bottle to apply on the crack and let it dry for a day or two. 

Replacing Damaged Seals

Repairing more severe damages to the seals requires more patience and skills. While we recommend asking a professional to help, you can do it by yourself with practice. 

• Remove Old Sealant: Carefully scrape off the old silicone sealant using a razor blade or scraper. Be thorough but gentle to avoid damaging the aquarium glass.

• Clean the Area: Wipe the area with isopropyl alcohol and a clean cloth to remove any residue and ensure a clean surface for the new sealant.

• Apply New Sealant: Using a caulking gun, apply a bead of aquarium-safe silicone sealant along the seam where the old sealant was removed. Ensure that the sealant covers the entire seam evenly.

• Smooth the Sealant: Use a wet finger or use the PVC card to smooth the silicone sealant to create a neat, smooth finish along the seam.

• Allow to Cure: Follow the curing time mentioned on the silicone sealant packaging before verifying proper sealing with water.

Wait for the repair job to cure and prepare to reassemble the aquarium. 

Also Read: Why Do I Need A UV Sterilizer?

Reassembling the Aquarium

After you’ve repaired the leak, it’s time for the aquarium to reclaim its former glory. Here is how:  

Cleaning and Preparing the Tank

Clean the tank thoroughly and eliminate any residual smell or silicone. You may use bleach or something similar, but use a lot of water to wash them afterward. If you didn’t remove the substrate, avoid using any acidic compound to clean the tank. 

Reinstall the substrate, decorations, and plants before refilling with water. You may partially use the collected water. But, perform a major water change after resetting the tank to eliminate the ammonia and nitrate accumulation in the collected water with fish.

If you’re done with aquascaping, let’s reinstall the equipment and the fish to the tank. 

Reinstalling Equipment

Replace the damaged equipment and reinstall it. Clean the filters, do a thorough maintenance, and install lights. Ensure all the connections to the air pumps, decorations, and other equipment are functioning properly. 

Reintroducing Fish

Let the water temperature hit the optimum range and introduce your fish to the tank in plastic bags. Let them accumulate to the temperature and release them after an hour. Monitor the water parameters meticulously for the next few days to avoid any sudden spikes.

Your fish may be stressed during this time. Feed them a smaller diet and reduce daylight time or dim the lighting for a few days to help their condition. 

Tips for Long-Term Integrity

Maintaining the integrity of an aquarium to prevent leakage over the long term requires careful planning, proper maintenance, and proactive measures. Here are some tips to help ensure your aquarium remains leak-free:

Quality Tank Selection

Invest in a high-quality aquarium tank from a reputable manufacturer. Cheaper tanks may be more prone to leaks due to lower-quality materials or craftsmanship. If you’re experienced enough, you may also DIY your way to a premium aquarium. 

Regular Inspections 

Perform routine inspections of your aquarium for any signs of wear, damage, or potential leaks. Check the seams, edges, and corners for any signs of stress, cracks, or weakening. Avoid metallic algae scrapers if possible. They often scrape away the corners. 

Proper Placement 

Ensure that your aquarium is placed on a stable, level surface that can support its weight. Avoid placing it near sources of excessive heat, direct sunlight, or high-footfall areas where it could be accidentally bumped or knocked over. A tilted surface will put more pressure on a single wall—causing the seam to stretch and tear. 

Use of Stand

Consider using a sturdy aquarium stand designed to support the weight of your tank evenly. A stand specifically designed for aquariums will provide better support than makeshift solutions. A strong stand will reduce vibrations and absorb impacts better. Place a protective mat or foam padding beneath your aquarium to provide additional support and cushioning against uneven surfaces.

Avoid Overfilling

Never overfill your aquarium beyond its recommended capacity. Overfilling can put excess stress on the tank seams and increase the risk of leakage.

Proper Water Condition

Maintain proper water parameters, including temperature, pH levels, and water hardness, to prevent corrosion and deterioration of the tank materials.

Silicone Maintenance

Check the silicone seals regularly for any signs of wear or deterioration. If you notice any issues, consider resealing the tank with aquarium-grade silicone sealant.

Emergency Preparedness

Have a plan in place in case of a leak, including having a backup tank or container to temporarily house your fish while you address the issue.

FAQs

The Bottom Line

We’ve prepared a guide for you to secure, prepare, and fix your leaking tank through this article. Hopefully, you’ll be able to find what you require in this time of crisis. We wish you good luck.

Chemical changes in artificial waters are more rapid than in the atmosphere, where it takes substantial changes in the air quality for significant shifts to occur. Despite their ability to adapt to most environments, Aquatic plants are susceptible to chemical, mechanical, and nutritional influences. 

Holes or rots in aquarium plant leaves are typical in matured planted tanks. Plants occasionally kill off older leaves by extracting all the nutrients from them to grow new foliage. The unnatural frequency of yellowing leaves and the presence of holes, however, are cause for concern. 

In this article, we’ll go through all the major reasons behind the appearance of holes in your aquarium plants and discuss mitigation strategies for them. 

Nutrient Deficiency

The primary and frequently the most common reason behind decay and holes appearing in plants is nutrient deficiency. Lack of proper nutrients in water and fertilizers restrains the plant from delivering essential elements to the leaves. In trying to nourish the newer leaves with the available nutrients, the older leaves are deserted—causing holes in them. 

Nutrient deficiencies that mainly cause holes in aquarium plants are: 

Potassium Deficiency

Potassium supports growth and helps resist disease in plants. Potassium also acts as a catalyst for enzyme activation and the opening and closing of stomata. 

Stunted growth, weakened root system, and pinholes in leaves are potent potassium deficiency symptoms appearing in aquatic plants. The holes would often be bordered with yellow or brown. A prolonged lack of potassium often causes chlorosis and necrosis in aquarium plants and may prove to be fatal. 

Potassium supplements are by far the most effective method to mitigate the issue. Eliminating the cause of deficiency (for example: algae or absence of enriched soil) before dosing the potassium-rich liquid as per the instructions should be sufficient to revive the poked plants. 

Best potassium supplement for aquarium plants: Seachem Flourish Potassium

Magnesium Deficiency

Magnesium is a central component of chlorophyll—the substance responsible for the green color of leaves, that helps the plants capture sunlight for photosynthesis. Magnesium also acts as a cofactor for multiple enzymes involved in cell growth and carbohydrate metabolism. 

As it is also involved in the transportation of other nutrients, magnesium deficiency mostly affects older leaves than younger ones. The most common symptom of which is chlorosis—yellowing or bleaching of the leaves, paired with the occasional appearance of holes. In some cases, magnesium deficiency also causes curled leaves. 

Magnesium deficiency is usually caused due to low water hardness and can be mitigated by water changes. Most commercial plant fertilizers (aquarium fertilizers) also contain generous amounts of magnesium to support the nutrient balance.

Calcium Deficiency

Calcium is critical to building the physical strength of aquatic plants. Calcium is an essential component of plant cell walls and provides rigidity and stability to the tissues. Regulating enzyme activity and signaling pathways for smoother membrane function. Calcium also involves itself in cell division and elongation—ensuring overall plant growth and shoot strength. 

Holes and necrosis in new leaves, stunted growth, and curled leaf tips are indicative of calcium deficiency. While older leaves remain unaffected initially, they also show discoloration and curling with prolonged calcium deficiency. Overall, weak stems, poor growth, and a weakened immune system are caused by a lack of calcium. 

Soft water lacks calcium. Hence, desperate and repeated use of RO/DI water depletes calcium in the water. A high level of competing minerals, including magnesium or potassium, may also hinder calcium uptake. Moreover, inert substances also lack sufficient calcium to replenish the requirements. Using moderately hard water and fertilizers should resolve the issue. 

Phosphorus Deficiency

Phosphorus is a key component of ATP, the energy currency of cells. Without the adequate amount of the same, plants lack the energy to perform essential biological processes, including growth, photosynthesis, and cell repair. Phosphorus is even involved in the creation of DNA and RNA. It also contributes to the production of phospholipids, vital components of cell membranes.

Phosphorous deficiency hinders cell division and can limit growth potential. Severe deficiency often causes leaves to distort, twist, and deform—breaking and dying. The leaves lose their characteristic green and turn into soggy yellow or brown. In most cases, the leaves also become brittle and develop elongated holes.  

Limit using phosphorus-absorbing foams and monitor your water quality closely, particularly phosphate levels. Supplementing the water with appropriate fertilizers should also address the deficiency. Furthermore, certain laterite-based substrates naturally release phosphorus over time. However, make sure that you aren’t overdosing your tank with phosphorus and promoting algae growth in the tank.  

Best phosphate test kit: API Phosphate Test Kit

Best phosphate fertilizer: Seachem Flourish Phosphorus

Sulfur Deficiency

Sulfur is an essential component for chlorophyll production. Without a sufficient supply of sulfur in either the water or the soil, your aquatic plants may develop conditions similar to magnesium deficiency. 

Sulfur is also quite involved in the process of amino acid synthesis, which ensures the proper structure of proteins. Amino acids are pretty essential for several plant functions, such as enzyme activity and defense mechanisms.

This macronutrient also helps plants grow resistance against environmental stresses and fluctuations in parameters. 

The most common indication of sulfur deficiency is the yellowing of leaves and the occurrence of holes. Stunted growth, interveinal chlorosis, and weaker stems are also denotative of sulfur deficiency. 

Having fish in the aquarium helps replenish the sulfur to a great extent. Driftwood and fertilizers can also be quite beneficial in this regard. However, simple water changes with de-chlorinated water (not RO/DI) can replenish the sulfur content without the risk of over-fertilization.  

Nitrogen Deficiency

Similar to magnesium, nitrogen is a key component of chlorophyll. Without enough nitrogen in the water, chlorophyll production declines and impacts the biological functions of both terrestrial and aquatic plants. Aside from playing a role in nutrient uptake and utilization, nitrogen also contributes to protein synthesis and enzyme production.  

Nitrogen deficiency limits chlorophyll production and causes the leaves to turn yellow. It majorly impacts the older leaves and gradually extends to younger foliage—starting typically from the leaf tips. Unnatural leaf loss, translucent leaves, and stunted growth are also evidence of nitrogen deficiency.  

In a balanced ecosystem, nitrogen is delivered by the organic matter released by the fish and rotting leaves. However, filtration systems in aquariums often break down the ammonia and nitrogen way before they can be used by the plants, for the residual components to be eliminated through water changes.

Testing water parameters, especially nitrate, and administering fertilizers rich with nitrogen are key to salvaging the issue. Although fish are a good source of nitrogen, avoid overstocking to prevent ammonia poisoning.     

Pest Infestation

Aquatic pests often nibble on plants, leave glaring holes, and strip them off of nutrition. Pests often arrive in the tank by hitchhiking and usually stay effectively hidden. Most aquarium pests reproduce a lot and are pretty challenging to eliminate without significant effort, often to the extent of restarting the tank. 

A few common aquarium pests that eat plants are: 

Snails

Mostly kept as supplementary creatures for nutrient cycling and to control algae, given optimum temperature and food, snails can reproduce a lot. Smaller snails in particular are notorious leaf-eaters, and their population can explode within a few weeks of introduction. Wild snails also often hitchhike from other tanks with new plants and decorations.

Snail removal usually involves: 

Removing snails is relatively easy, especially for larger species. Simply pluck them off the plants and substrate by hand. Be also sure to remove the jelly-like egg clusters floating or stuck on surfaces. 

DIY traps, baited by lettuce or cucumber, can be great for eliminating snails in clusters. You may also purchase them online. 

Predatory fish, such as clown loaches and pea puffers, can be effective in controlling the snail population. However, they may also be incompatible with existing fish and plants. Do your research before introducing them to the tank.

Also Read: How To Check If A Snail Dead Or Sleeping: Complete Guide

Copepods

Copepods are detritivores and help clean up decaying organic matter. While they aren’t harmful to fish or plants, they can be considered a “great snack” for other pests like snails. They may also carry diseases and parasites that may infect your plants. 

• Cleaning the tanks often eliminates their food source and helps reduce their population.
• They’re attracted to light and may be gathered by shining a flashlight to be siphoned out. 
• Don’t overfeed your tank inhabitants, as copepods take advantage of the uneaten food. 
• Small fish like rasboras, tetras, and guppies love to hunt copepods. 

Planaria, limpets, and many other pests may also directly and indirectly harm your plants. Consider removing them from the tank if they’ve exploded in population. 

Inadequate Lighting

Plants require a massive amount of light to convert oxygen and water into carbohydrates through photosynthesis. Inadequate lighting causes malnutrition and often presents issues like chlorosis, necrosis, and leaf holes. 

In this section, we’ll discuss a few lighting issues that may be resulting in the deformities in your plants. 

Improper Day/Night Lighting

Most plants produce food in the day and burn stored energy to grow around the clock. Contrary to popular belief, night lighting is essential for the growth of plants and to replenish natural CO2 in the tank. 

Lack of either daylight or nightlight can prove to be detrimental to the well-being of your aquarium plants. They may grow to develop holes in the leaves and weak stems and perform premature leaf replacement. 

In artificial waters, aquarists employ lighting systems with automatic timers that control the day/night settings. Usually, 8-10 hours of daylight is adequate for most aquatic plants. Offering not enough night light would fail to replenish the CO2 requirements during the day.  

Lack of Full Spectrum Lighting

Full spectrum lighting settings maximize the growth rate of the plants. However, the absence of the same can cause several health issues, including a weakened immune system and necrosis in plants—causing leaves to rot and turn yellow. 

Full spectrum lights generally include a varying number of white, red, green, blue, and yellow lights. Many premium products, however, also include other colors to imitate both the ultraviolet and infrared spectrum. 

You may consider a hygger 14W LED light for your planted aquarium. 

Inadequate Penetration

A majority of cheap aquarium lights can’t penetrate the water column and reach the bottom despite having a great number of lights. This increases competition in the tank, and the younger plants fall prey to the hostility. 

Inadequate penetration can cause the lower plants to starve and fall prey to malnutrition. The larger plants may also strip nutrition away from the lower leaves to nourish the foliage that is being subjected to adequate lighting.   

When buying aquarium lighting, keep an eye out for something similar to: “80 PAR @ 12in Depth” or “lumens.” These are the units for light intensity. 

Fish Damage

Numerous fish species love to munch on leaves. While herbivore fish are often the main culprit, the habit of plant obliteration rarely follows their diet preference. Irrespective of their food choice, fishes may occasionally play with the leaves and uproot the plants. 

While the list isn’t exhaustive, some typical plant destroyer species include: 

Unless you want to avoid keeping these species in the tank, there is no way to mitigate the issues. While you may use artificial plants, that nullifies the point of this article. However, you can do your research before introducing new plants or new fish to your tank to avoid or minimize the issue. 

Water Quality Issues

Water quality issues may also contribute to the appearance of holes in your plant leaves. 

pH Imbalance

Plants are usually more resilient to water parameter changes than fish and invertebrates. However, extreme pH deviations can cause stunted root and stem growth, turn leaves brown and yellow and restrict specific nutrient uptake. Severe pH imbalance cases may also be fatal to aquarium plants. 

CO2 Deficiency

An overstocked tank, not enough night light, and a lack of supplementation cause CO2 deficiency in the tank. It diminishes plant growth and often leads younger plants to death due to competition and stress. 

High Ammonia Levels

While dissolved ammonia is a great source of nitrogen for plants, an excessive amount of it may prove to be toxic and promote algae growth. Algae bloom strips the plants away from essential nutrients. An exorbitant level of ammonia also indicates larger issues and demands immediate attention. 

Poor Water Circulation

Aquatic plants mostly rely on the dissolved nutrients. Poor water circulation diminishes the process and may leave your plants with deficiencies despite having enough nutrients in the water. Oxygen and CO2 also need to be supplied to them through water circulation to perform the metabolic processes. 

Mitigation Strategies

Monitoring water parameters and taking necessary actions to bring them to the optimal levels is the key mitigation strategy. Consider allowing water circulation throughout every corner of the tank and administering fertilizers sparingly. 

Mechanical Damage

Although rare, mechanical damages may also occur in planted tanks. Some of them include:  

Decorations

Sharp decorations may damage the leaves of your plants. If you have fish that are playful, they may also push the smaller decorations around and harm the juvenile plants.  

Water Currents

While water circulation is necessary for plants to survive, strong water currents may harm the plants or even uproot them. Consider a casual flow through the plants for the best results. 

Algae Scrubbing

Commercial algae scrubbers can harm the leaves if not careful enough. Alternatively, you may introduce algae-eating fish. 

FAQs

The Bottom Line

We’ve compiled a list of reasons behind the appearance of holes in your aquarium plants. Hopefully, you’ll now be able to diagnose the issue and embrace mitigation strategies according to it.

A matured planted tank is a self-sustaining aquarium with a balanced ecosystem and lots of bacterial biodiversity in the filter, plants, and substrate. Owing to its complexity, initiating a tank with a proper nitrogen cycle and maturation process is already quite challenging, and maintaining it is more so. 

The point of a self-sustaining tank contradicts the claim of a diligent maintenance routine. However, a mature planted tank would require much less involvement in filtration and water changes than tanks with minimal to no substrate and plants. 

In this article, we’ll go through the elements of a planted tank and shed light on how to maintain them efficiently. 

Water Parameters

Providing your aquarium inhabitants, both plants and fish, with optimal water conditions is necessary to continue enjoying your well-established tank. Planted tanks require maintaining 5 key elements that can tip the ecological balance if disrupted. Aside from temperature, these elements include:

pH Level

Water pH level is the indicator of how acidic or basic the water is to RO/DI water. With RO water typically revolving around pH 7, acidic water is identified by a reduced value, and basicity is measured with an increasing number. 

For planted matured tanks with tropical fish, a pH level of 6.5 to 7.5 is generally suitable, with slight adjustments made as required to suit different fish and plant species. 

If you haven’t performed any major actions like massive water changes or chemical infusion, a matured planted tank is expected to maintain its pH levels quite efficiently. However, you must monitor the pH levels intermittently to ensure stability. 

Tips to adjust pH level in planted tanks:

• Use RO/DI water during water changes to stabilize and buffer the pH levels. 
• Use crushed coral or dolomite gravel in the aquarium. Calcium-carbonate slowly dissolves in the water to raise pH. 
• Use boiled driftwood as decoration to lower and buffer pH levels.  
• Ensure proper aeration and movement in the tank to maintain desired pH levels. 
• Clean the substrate and filters regularly to avoid pH spikes from occurring. 

Apart from these, you may consider placing more plants to help with filtration and pH stabilization.   

Water Hardness

Both general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (KH) are critical for the survival of fish and plants in matured tanks. The GH level refers to the dissolved minerals, predominantly calcium and magnesium, in the water, and the KH levels represent the alkalinity of the water. 

Tropical plants and fish typically thrive in soft to moderately hard water and they’re more sensitive to KH rather than GH. pH also has a direct relationship with KH. If a water sample is low on KH, it probably is acidic and susceptible to rapid changes. 

However, some fish species, such as African cichlids, can only be kept in very hard water along with plants like Vallisneria. Wild caught Discus and livebearers also often prefer relatively hard water. For general breeding purposes, comparatively higher water hardness is recommended to fulfill the calcium demands of the egg-laying females.

Similar to pH regulation, using RO/DI water, adding driftwood, and introducing sources of calcium carbonate often resolve the hardness issues in mature planted tanks. 

Ammonia and Nitrate Levels

Ammonia, which is highly toxic to fish, is generated through organic waste and poop in the water. Beneficial bacteria living in your filter and substrate break the ammonia to produce nitrite and nitrate, which are only toxic in higher concentrations. 

Plants, in contrast, consume the excess ammonia and nitrate to produce nutrients for their growth. 

While the paradox exists, you shouldn’t aim to benefit the plants by refusing to remove nitrogen compounds and risking the well-being of your fish. Proper lighting and fertilizers can easily offset the lack of these toxic compounds. 

Perform routine checks for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrite levels in your tank during maintenance cycles. If any of these rise to dangerous levels, perform water changes and ensure the bio-filtration system is properly working. 

Carbon Dioxide

Aside from light and water, carbon dioxide is another critical component for photosynthesis—making it essential to be present in the water for plants to survive. A low amount of dissolved CO2, albeit always, remains present in water.    

However, if it’s present in a high concentration that’s replacing the dissolved oxygen, it may cause issues for your fish. 

In lightly stocked aquariums with a lower carbon dioxide demand, you may not need to infuse CO2 into the water. But in aquariums with higher demand, you need to administer CO2 dosing to maintain the well-being of the plants. 

Nevertheless, 20 mg/l CO2 for a moderately stocked aquarium with adequate lighting and average plant growth should be adequate. A higher concentration of 30 mg/l is advisable for tanks with high-lighting and fast-growing stems. 

Fertilizer and CO2 Infusion

Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, iron, and manganese are among the most essential nutrients necessary for the plant population. Fertilizers deliver them to your aquatic plants through either the root systems or by dissolving in the water. During your regular maintenance schedule, ensure that the plants are getting enough nutrients without gambling your fish’s health. 

Plant Nutrient Requirement

Different plant species have varying requirements for the essential nutrients. For example:

• Dwarf Baby Tears have high light and CO2 requirements.
• Amazon Swords are large and robust plants with moderate nutrient requirements.
• Java Fern can thrive in low to moderate-nutrient environments. It extracts nutrients from the water column.
• Anubias are slow-growing plants that can thrive in low to moderate nutrients.
• Java Moss can grow in low-nutrient conditions. It primarily relies on nutrients from the water column.
• Duckweed reduces nitrate from aquariums and has a low to moderate nutrient demand. 
• Most carpeting plants have moderate to high nutrient requirements.

Decide on whether or not to administer fertilizers by monitoring the plants and understanding their nutrient demands. 

Choosing a Fertilizer

Most mass-market fertilizers, those from Seachem and API, fulfill most of the nutrient demands of plants. While most of them include a variety of elements ranging from phosphorus to iron, some of them focus on a single nutrient suitable for a particular species of plant. Choose a fertilizer that suits your plant requirements and your aquascaping style.  

Dosage Guidelines

Typically, weekly doses are recommended for moderately stocked plants. The amount, however, will vary depending on the product. The dosing instructions must be present on the bottle. 

If you have an ecologically balanced tank, meaning your fish and plants effectively exchange nutrients, you may stretch the gap between each fertilizer dosing. 

Root Tabs

Root tabs are specifically designed for plants with roots submerged in the soil. These tabs slowly dissolve in the soil and water to deliver necessary nutrients to the plants. In contrast to fertilizers that may be overdosed and cause harm to fish, root tabs are much more convenient and safe to use. 

However, root tabs fail to supply nutrients to floating plants. 

CO2 Infusion

As mentioned, demanding plants often require additional CO2 to thrive in artificial waters. There are primarily two ways to add CO2 to your aquarium: 

1. Pressurized CO2 System

In this method, CO2 cylinders are used with a regulator and a diffuser. Additional accessories, such as bubble counters and drop checkers, also are used in high-tech setups. The regulator regulates the output of CO2 gas delivered to the tank through the diffuser submerged in the water. 

It allows precise control over CO2 levels and is suitable for highly stocked planted tanks. 

2. Liquid Carbon Supplement

These products usually contain compounds like glutaraldehydes as a source of organic carbon. The liquid chemicals are dosed directly into the water as per the instructions. These products also release carbon dioxide gradually, but you’ll have less control over it. 

Aquascaping

A matured planted tank, with sufficient nutrients and lighting, can grow exponentially and outgrow the tank in a few weeks. Aquascaping for planted tanks, although not limited to it, revolves around trimming, pruning, and removal of dead leaves. Here is how to do it: 

Know Your Plants

Some plants have a higher growth rate than others. As an aquarist, you’re expected to know about their strategic potential in aquascaping and how fast they send their runners to seize space. Here is a quick overview of a few common aquarium plants: 

1. Hygrophila polysperma
2. Hygrophila corymbosa
3. Water Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis)
4. Brazilian Pennywort (Hydrocotyle leucocephala)

• Medium-Growth Rate Plants:

1. Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus)
2. Anubias species (Anubias barteri, Anubias nana)
3. Cryptocoryne species (Cryptocoryne wendtii)

1. Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri)
2. Bucephalandra species (Bucephalandra sp.)
3. Anubias Petite (Anubias barteri var. nana ‘Petite’)

In case you’re introducing new plants to the matured tank, a quick study on their characteristics often proves beneficial.  

Introducing New Plants

New plants often bring parasites and hitch-hiking crustaceans into the tanks. They may also be sensitive to the parameters of your matured aquarium. 

Therefore, to keep your existing plants safe and to mitigate the other initial issues, you need to perform a few initial steps before introducing the new plants to the setup: 

Quarantine your new plants in an isolated container for a few days, preferably for a couple of weeks, to prevent the introduction of unwanted pests and diseases. 

Inspect for any hitchhiking snails, rotting leaves, or dead stems. Use tweezers to remove the unwanted components from the plants. 

Slowly and gradually add water from your main aquarium over a few hours, replacing the quarantine tank water. For convenience, you may float the smaller quarantine tank over the main aquarium and replace the water.

Research your new plant beforehand and learn about its lighting requirements. Plant it accordingly and as per your desired visual layout. 

Keep an eye on your new arrivals and overall tank health in the following weeks. Administer fertilizers, root tabs, and CO2 injections as required to ensure optimal conditions. 

Filtration System

Depending on your setup, you may primarily have three kinds of filtration systems. A mechanical filtration system, a biological filtration system, and a chemical filtration system. A chemical filtration system, however, is not advisable for matured planted aquariums.  

Cleaning Mechanical Filter Media

Remove the filter media, such as coarse sponge and filter floss, and vigorously clean them with dechlorinated water. You don’t need to use aquarium water, but you may as well. 

You also can replace mechanical filter media anytime you want, as they don’t house beneficial bacteria as much as biological filters. 

Cleaning Biological Filter Media

Bio media primarily houses beneficial bacteria and needs to be gently tumbled in the aquarium water. Don’t scrub the biofilm off of them. Gradually replace the bio media over a few weeks—allowing the beneficial bacteria colonies to resettle. 

Substrate Maintenance

Substrates are an integral part of a matured planted tank. Aside from nurturing beneficial bacteria, a potent substrate fulfills the nutrient demand of the plants and occasionally shelters burrowing creatures that live beneath the bed. 

A few key elements that need to be considered while maintaining or replacing the substrate include: 

Substrate Depth

Over time, the nutrient content of the substrates depletes, and you may need to replace them. While it’s best to replace a portion of substrate at a time, you need to maintain a proper substrate depth for the plants to thrive. 

Typically, a 2-3 inches substrate depth, infused with root tabs and fertilizers, is advisable for matured planted tanks. Aquarium soil is arguably the best substrate for planted tanks, but you may layer it with an inch of fine sand if you have burrowing fish. 

Substrate Vacuuming

Eventually, organic debris will accumulate on and inside the substrates. The accumulations often oversaturate the water with nutrients and ammonia—causing algae bloom and plants to overgrow. 

While disturbing the bacteria and agitating the substrate to a great extent is not recommended for matured planted tanks, you should vacuum the substrate occasionally to eliminate the rotting debris. Agitating the substrate may release toxic gas and disturb the fibrous root system of the plants. 

During maintenance, remove the dead leaves from the tank. Don’t forget to remove the trimmed and pruned leaves that may accumulate in the substrate and raise the bioload.

Aeration

A mature and stable substrate bed often ends up trapping gas bubbles inside. Oxygen-rich water also fails to nurture the substrates due to compaction. Aerating the substrate, which is essentially poking (not agitating) it with a pointy stick, can release the bubbles and allow water to flow through the root systems and the bacteria colonies.    

Algae Control

Algaes are considered an indication that an aquarium is healthy. While not harmful, algae bloom can snatch away essential nutrients from the plants and disrupt the ecological balance. Overgrown algae on the glass and plants may also restrict the light from reaching the depths.  

Here are a few methods you may employ to control algae growth:  

– Balanced Lighting

Algae are similar to plants in terms of energy production. They require consistent lighting to propagate. Balancing the lights to deliver 8-10 hours of daylight may mitigate the issue and allow plants to consume the excess nutrients.  

– Consistent CO2 Levels

Monitor the CO2 levels in the tank constantly and regulate the CO2 flow accordingly to control algae growth. Oversaturation of CO2 boosts algae production and may also harm the active inhabitants of the tank. 

– Good Water Circulation

Ensure good water circulation through the tank for even distribution of the nutrients. Adjust the flow outlets to reach every corner of the tank and keep it at a flow rate that doesn’t disturb the plants or constantly agitate a particular area in the substrate. 

– Algae-eating Fish and Invertebrates

Introducing a few algae-eating fish and invertebrates may also help you control algae growth in the tank. However, these creatures, such as snails and common plecos, typically grow rapidly and reproduce a lot. Snail infestations are not unheard of in the planted tank community.

– Avoid Excess Fertilizer

Over-enthusiastic use of fertilizers, aside from harming the fish, can cause algae bloom in the tank. Refrain yourself from disregarding the dosing instructions and harming the balance of your matured planted tank. 

FAQs

The Bottom Line

Tank maintenance can be challenging. For you to remember the key elements, we’ve compiled a maintenance list for matured planted tanks and discussed them in detail. Hopefully, you’ll not have any further issues comprehending how to maintain your matured planted tank. 

Clean water, optimum space, and proper nutrition are the basic elements required to maintain a healthy aquarium. As your aquatic friends are incapable of collecting and choosing their food, you’re the one responsible for their balanced and enriched diet.  

Stuck in between the argument of formula food and live food, we often overlook the most critical aspects of the discussion: preference and proper growth of your aquatic friends. Irrespective of the food type and brand you may choose, it should be suitable for the “diners” regarding taste and development. 

In this article, we’ll go through the most common types of fish food, including flakes, pellets, and live food, to articulate their nutritional contributions, benefits, and, most importantly—drawbacks. 

Types of Fish Food

Several types of food with nutritional elements in different proportions are available in the market for your fish. Many of them categorize themselves by species, and others present themselves as a generalized solution for freshwater or saltwater aquariums. 

Beginner aquarists often fail to ensure the proper nutrition required for their fish and feed either whatever comes up frequently on Amazon or whatever their fish likes the most. For those who belong to these groups, we’ve discussed what kind of food is best for your fish in this section.  

Flake Food

Flake foods are probably the most convenient and popular choice among beginners, with smaller fish and even smaller aquariums. Flake choices often include a variety of ingredients, including fish meal, shrimp meal, algae, vitamins, and minerals. They’re processed and compressed into thin sheets to be crushed for easier consumption. 

Most flake foods are floating in nature and are designed to delay submersion for easier pecking by smaller fish species. This characteristic of flake food makes it well-suited for fish that prefer to feed from the upper water column. However, it also makes the flakes all the more challenging for community aquariums with bottom-dwellers and pelagic fish (midwater). 

Flake foods made for specific fish species are often manufactured with colors and artificial flavoring to make them more appealing for the fish and trigger their natural feeding instincts. This can encourage a more enthusiastic feeding response.    

Composition and Nutrition

Let’s discuss the benefits of having particular nutritional elements in your preferred fish food. 

1. Fish Meal

Fish meal is often the primary protein and fat source of flake foods. It’s derived from processed fish and provides the necessary amino acids responsible for growth and health. It contributes to overall muscle development, metabolic process, and immune system. 

2. Shrimp Meal

Shrimp meal has different amino acid profiles than fish meal and, therefore, is necessary to be added as an additional source of protein in flake foods. Furthermore, shrimp meal emulates their natural feeding patterns more closely—making it more palatable.  

3. Algae and Plant Matter

Omnivorous fish species require fibers, plant protein, and essential vitamins found in algae and plant matter to thrive. Plant matter also ensures proper digestion and contributes to a more balanced diet for smaller fish species that rely on plankton for survival. 

4. Vitamins and Minerals

Added vitamins and minerals strengthen your fish’s immune system, reduce the risk of diseases, and promote bone development. As most fish are unable to synthesize vitamins, it’s necessary to supplement their diet with essential minerals and vitamins. 

5. Carbohydrates

Carbohydrates are a secondary source of energy for fish. Although carbohydrates aren’t as digestible to fish as protein and fat, they are included in commercial fish flakes to keep production costs down. While it may not harm your fish, it’s hardly an essential component. 

6. Stabilizers and Binders

Stabilizers and binders are added during the production process to maintain the structural integrity of the flakes. These components typically don’t contribute to the nutritional equation but prevent the flakes from breaking down into undesirable powder. 

7. Color Enhancers

Depending on the fish species and their color profile, you may find beta-carotene, astaxanthin, canthaxanthin, and spirulina in the fish flakes. These are considered color enhancers for vibrant fish species such as guppies, koi, and certain cichlids. 

Suitable Fish Species

Flakes are convenient food sources. But don’t forget to offer your fish a varied diet of live/frozen food and algae wafers for a more balanced nutrition. Here are a few fish species that primarily enjoy flake foods, although the list isn’t exhaustive.

These small species of colorful freshwater fish readily accept flakes and thrive on products containing a higher amount of protein and fat.

Best flakes for guppies: Tetra TetraMin Plus Tropical Flakes

Mollies require a comparatively higher amount of plant matter to maintain their metabolic functions. Depending on the species, they may also benefit from additional color enhancers.

Best flakes for mollies:  Aqueon Tropical Flakes Color Enhancing

Bettas are typically known for their carnivorous tendencies; they can also benefit from occasional flake food enriched with fish protein and plant matter. 

Best flakes for bettas: Ultra Fresh Betta Fish Food

In addition, mid-water feeders like tetras, barbs, and danios, and bottom feeders like plecos and loaches mostly benefit from sinking flakes.  

Drawbacks of Flake Food

The benefits of flake food include convenient feeding, easier digestion, and pricing. The drawbacks of the same are: 

1. Flakes easily spoil the water

Flake foods easily disintegrate and sink to the bottom after a few minutes of water absorption. Subsequently, it spoils and rapidly jeopardizes the water quality by introducing organic debris and increasing chlorine levels.

2. Limited sinking options

Flakes are mostly considered for surface feeders and are not suitable for community tanks. They lack the sinking options (slow-sinking, sinking, floating) appropriate for different fish species. 

3. Have lower nutritional values

Flake foods have a higher amount of fillers and binders, reducing the nutritional concentration.

4. Overfeeding risk

It’s tough to estimate the portion size of the lightweight flakes after they’ve absorbed the water. Inexperienced aquarists may overfeed their fish with flake foods. 

5. Flakes are quite fragile

Flakes often get obliterated during shipping and arrive in unusable powder form. While you may try to feed the granules to your smaller fish, they often get ignored and wasted. 

Pellet Food

Pellets are densely packed nutritional food sources for fish, formed in small capsules or pellets to make it easier for larger fish to gobble them. To suit a variety of fish species, from small to large, pellets come in different sizes and shapes. However, pellets are typically designed for comparatively larger fish species like koi, large cichlids, discus, etc. 

Similar to flake foods, pellets also consist of fish meal, shrimp meal, soybean meal, and vitamins, but pellets often have a higher concentration of these ingredients and offer a more balanced diet. The uniform size of pellets also promotes better portion control and a similar balance of nutrition. 

Dispensing pellets is also easier. Due to its shape and better structural integrity, you don’t need to continuously wonder if the automatic dispenser is reliably working or not. In our professional opinion, high-quality pellets, supplemented by live/frozen food, should be the first choice as fish food unless there is a necessity. 

Pellets Vs. Flakes

I used to wonder why flakes exist if we have pellets and vice versa. But, after a few years of fishkeeping, here’s what I could gather. 

1. Shelf life

Pellets have a much higher shelf life than flakes. Flakes, with more surface area and hydrophilic characteristics, can’t be stored safely for an extended period.

2. Variety of formulas

The production process of pellets is much more controlled and customizable. You can find pellets for almost every kind of tropical and saltwater fish species. The nutrition density of pellets is also much higher than that of flakes. 

3. Digestibility

Pellets often are infused with enzymes and probiotics for better digestibility. Some high-quality pellets also include vitamin C to promote a better immune system and overall physiological functions. 

4. Sinking and floating varieties

Depending on the species, pellets that emulate their natural feeding habits can be found. Sinking pellets, floating pellets, and slow-sinking pellets allow proper feeding to bottom-dwellers and inhabitants of community aquariums.

5. Better portion control

As mentioned, pellets are better to prevent overfeeding. Their uniform size and weight allow for a much-balanced feeding routine. 

Pellets are more durable than flakes, have fewer fillers, and don’t cloud the water as much. 

6. Convenience

Both flakes and pellets are more convenient food alternatives than live sources. Live foods are more challenging to source and sustain. 

Suitable Fish Species

Pellets are made for almost every species of fish. Depending on their feeding habits and portion requirement, the pellet size and nutritional elements, however, may change. 

 A few fish species that do pretty well on pellets are: 

While beef liver is a common and potent alternative, Discus fish happily accept high-quality pellets that promote growth and enrich their vibrant colors. 

Best Discus pellets: Hikari Tropical Discus Bio-Gold Fish Food

Colorful cichlids such as Oscars, Firemouth, and Peacock cichlids thrive on pellets paired with live feeding routines. 

Best cichlid pellets: Aqueon Cichlid Slow Sinking Fish Food Pellets

Fancy and common goldfish happily accept easily ingestible and digestible pellets. 

Pong species, such as koi and sturgeons, are better kept on pellets for their habit of producing huge bioload and increasing ammonia levels. 

Best Koi pellets: Tetra Koi Vibrance Sticks

Other fish species well-suited for pellets are: 

Drawbacks of Pellet Food

Pellets are usually preferred over flakes, but some aquarists advocate for live/frozen food, stating the drawbacks: 

1. Pellet Size

The pellet size is a genuine concern in community tanks. Some pellets may be smaller or larger, making it difficult for some fish species to eat. Larger pellets may also be challenging to manipulate, even by larger fish.

2. Preservation

Chemical agents used in pellets to increase their life span are a growing concern among aquarists. Some fish enthusiasts prefer more natural or homemade diets over commercial pellets. 

3. Selective feeding

In community aquariums, some species may be a bit more aggressive or faster eaters. Pellets being easily ingestible, they often gobble a significant portion of the same, leaving less dominant fish species underfed. 

4. Storage concerns

Exposure to air, moisture, or extreme temperatures can degrade the integrity and jeopardize the nutrition balance of the pellets. 

5. Lack of Stimulation

Pellets are indeed boring and usually fail to generate enough stimulation, compared to live food, for the fish to rekindle their natural hunting or foraging behavior. 

6. Cost

Pellets usually cost more than flakes and that may raise concern if you have multiple aquariums with different fish species. 

Live/Frozen Food

Although not quite, live/frozen food tries to mimic the natural diet of fish species. However, natural water fish are accustomed to consuming a wide variety of diets, including meat protein, plant matter, plankton, and readily available minerals, which is difficult to match in artificial settings with a single live/frozen alternative.

Nevertheless, live/frozen foods stimulate natural behavior more than any other commercial food source. Live food, such as brine shrimp, also helps enhance the coloration of certain fish species. 

Whenever feeding live food, ensure that it’s bought from a reliable source to avoid the introduction of parasites and diseases in the aquarium. Moreover, don’t confuse your fish’s love for juicy bloodworms with their hunger. Consider limiting these food alternatives to treats only.  

Examples of Live/Frozen Food

A few common examples of live/frozen food are: 

Especially suitable for fry and small fish, brine shrimp are small crustaceans that provide a high-protein meal.

Small, fly-like crustaceans rich in essential nutrients. They usually grow naturally in healthy aquariums. 

The larvae of midge flies. Bloodworms have vibrant red coloration and help deliver protein and nutrients to larger fish.

Aquatic oligochaetes that serve as a nutritious live or frozen food source.

Small crustaceans resembling shrimp. Rich in proteins, omega-3 fatty acids, and pigments.

Small, shrimp-like crustaceans. Often used as frozen food.

• Feeder fish (live goldfish, small fish)

Live fish, such as goldfish or smaller species. Used as live prey for predatory fish. 

Fish Species Suitable for Live/Frozen Feeding

As long as you’re ministering them as occasional treats or supplementing their diet with more balanced sources like pellets, most fish species are fine with consuming live/frozen food. However, some predatory fish, who rely solely on meat protein, should be given live food as a staple. 

These fish include: 

Drawbacks of Live/Frozen Food

The drawbacks of live/frozen food include: 

1. Disease transmission

As mentioned, disease transmission could prove to be a fatal issue if you’re not sourcing live food from reliable sources. Even after that, parasites can creep into your tank with feeder fish and other alternatives.  

2. Handling and maintenance

Handling the live food, especially feeder fish, can be demanding at times. Feeding them separately, maintaining water parameters, and isolating batches just to offer them to another fish often burns me out. 

3. Nutritional variability

Live/frozen food has a wide nutritional variability that may cause malnutrition or overfeeding issues. A batch of the same type of live food can deviate significantly in terms of protein and fat content from a different batch.

4. Cost and availability

Reliably sourced live food, often bred artificially, is typically more costly than pellets and flakes and may not be available at all times—disrupting diet and nutrition. 

FAQs

The Bottom Line

There is no single kind of food that is best for every fish. Depending on the fish species, we’ve discussed the most suitable options regarding nutrition, convenience, safety, and cost. Hopefully, you’ll now be able to find what kind of food is best for your fish.

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When this beautiful male betta sees an image of himself in a mirror, he starts flaring at it. That certainly gives this gorgeous specimen the wow factor, but is flaring a good or bad thing for him?

Many commenters reckon the fish is stressed and that encouraging him to flare by showing him his reflection is cruel. But the betta’s tank is immaculately clean, well decorated, the right size for him, and it looks like he has a snail or two for company.

So, what do you think?

Key Takeaways

• Natural Reaction: When betta fish flare at their reflection, like the one in the video, they are displaying a natural behavior meant to intimidate rivals, not recognizing it as their own image.
• Stress vs. Stimulation: While flaring can indicate stress, which can weaken the immune system, it is also a form of exercise and mental stimulation that, if done in moderation, can benefit a betta’s health.
• Balance is Key: For a healthy and happy betta, flaring should be limited to a few short sessions of a couple of minutes each per week to avoid excessive stress, and the fish’s environment should be reflection-free and enriched with decorations to prevent boredom.

Why Do Betta Fish Flare?

In the wild environment, betta fish are solitary creatures. They’re territorial and can become highly aggressive when confronted by an intruder in their patch.

Now, the betta doesn’t want to risk a physical altercation with his rival, as an injury could spell disaster or even death. So, what can the betta do to scare off an intruder? To get rid of the competition, betta fish flare.

The main purpose of flaring is to create the illusion that the betta is much larger than he really is. Check out the betta in this video. You can see that by puffing up his gill covers and extending his pectoral fins, this little guy makes himself appear much bigger and more threatening.

Is That Me?

There’s no way the betta can recognize his reflection. As far as this fish is concerned, he’s looking at a rival male who’s trying to invade his territory and taking action to frighten away the unwelcome intruder.

That’s got to be stressful, right?

Stress

Life for a wild betta fish is pretty stressful at the best of times. For a start, the betta has to find food, and that’s not easy.

Bettas tend to be opportunistic feeders, grabbing tiny crustaceans, insect larvae, or water-bound insects when they can. Depending on the season and the betta’s territory, finding a ready supply of food is not a given, and now knowing when you’re going to eat next has to be pretty stressful.

Since bettas are solitary fish, finding a mate is not easy. So, if a rival male betta appears to be checking out your patch, trying to steal your food, and possibly any females that might be around, that’s a massive source of stress.

Stress weakens a fish’s immune system, leaving the creature vulnerable to diseases caused by bacteria and parasites. Exposure to too many stressful situations could even kill your pet.

So, why would you want to deliberately stress out your betta buddy by presenting him with a threatening image of what he perceives to be a rival who could pinch his territory, food, and females?

The Other Side of the Argument

Some TikTok viewers think that flaring is good for this betta, as well as being entertaining for his owner.

Boredom is another big cause of stress for betta fish. These are intelligent creatures that need plenty of mental and physical stimulation to keep them fit and healthy and prevent obesity. Encouraging natural behaviors, such as patrolling their territory, hunting for food, and exploring caves and clumps of bushy plants, is essential for betta health.

Flaring is also a natural behavior; a small amount of it can act as a kind of fishy workout for the betta, helping to stimulate him and keep him fit.

Experts reckon that a total of 20 minutes of flaring time per week is plenty. So, if the beautiful betta in this video is enjoying a short exercise session, that’s most likely fine.

This betta certainly looks to be in excellent condition, displaying spectacular coloration and finnage with no sign of sickness or injury. So, for him, a little flaring training every now and then is probably more beneficial than harmful.

Flaring Training for Boredom Relief

As well as his glorious looks, a big part of the betta’s attraction is his personality. Some bettas are feisty and lively, whereas others are quite lazy and curious. But a betta will only show his true colors and character if he’s kept interested and busy.

Many owners give their fish a few entertaining toys, like plastic balls, hollow floating logs, caves, and such. Betta fish can learn simple tricks, including following your finger and jumping through a small hoop for a food reward. Some betta owners also find mirrors can make a great interactive boredom-breaker.

However, it’s best to limit mirror training to a few minutes once or twice a week. That’s usually all a wild betta would experience and can provide a useful form of natural exercise for a captive betta.

Beware Reflections!

Depending on how you aquascape your tank and where it’s positioned, there’s a risk of your fish spotting himself in his reflection in the aquarium viewing panes.

Betta fish don’t have fantastic eyesight, so when he spots his reflection in the glass, the fish usually mistakes himself for an intruder and starts flaring. To prevent stress, you’ll need to take steps to get rid of reflections in your pet’s tank and limit mirror training in the meantime.

Why Is Your Betta Flaring at You?

Some TikTok commenters checking out the article said that their bettas flare at them when they approach the tank.

So, what causes that weird behavior?

Home Sweet Home

When a betta fish first arrives in a new environment, it is quite common for him to flare at his owner. As these fish are territorial in nature, adjusting to a new location can be a stressful and confusing experience for them.

During the initial days, your new pet will be cautious and doubtful of any activity in or around the aquarium. Therefore, giving your fish some space to settle down comfortably is recommended. Although it may be tempting, avoid fussing over your betta and let him acclimate to their new surroundings.

Once your betta feels secure and becomes familiar with the new environment, he should stop flaring at you.

During this settling-in period, don’t use a mirror to exercise your fish, as that will simply stress him even more.

Fear

The first few times you clean your betta’s tank or carry out a bit of routine maintenance work, he might flare at your fingers. That’s quite normal and the behavior should stop once your pet is used to your presence in his tank.

Poor Eyesight

Fish eyes don’t work in the same way as ours. Instead of a clear, well-defined image, a betta fish sees mostly movement and color. Bettas can detect vibrations in the water caused by movement outside the tank or a loud noise close to the tank. When your betta buddy is spooked, he’s likely to flare at you if you’re close to the source of the vibration.

Once your betta fish gets used to you being around his tank, he’ll probably stop flaring.

All’s Well That Ends Well!

In the case of the fish in this video footage, he appears to have a clean, well-appointed home with some beautiful decoration and planting to prevent boredom and relieve stress. Since he lives alone with just a couple of snails for company, territoriality is not a stressor for this guy. Mr betta is brightly colored and in fabulous condition, so clearly flaring is not an issue for him.

A small amount of flaring every week is not considered to be harmful to bettas and can even help keep them fit and prevent boredom. That said, too much of a good thing can be extremely stressful. Stress leads to a weakened immune system, opening the door to parasite and bacterial infections, which could ultimately kill your pet.

Betta fish have a relatively short lifespan of up to five years; too much stress will shorten that. So, if you decide to entertain your betta with a little flaring training like the fishy in this video, keep sessions short and infrequent.

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You’ve most likely heard that goldfish have an attention span of just a couple of minutes and probably a memory to match. So, fish can’t be that intelligent, right?

You might be surprised to learn just how intelligent your fishy friends are! Read this guide to discover how fish intelligence is measured, learn how to spot it, and find out if your pet fish are at the top or bottom of the class!

Key Takeaways

• Fish intelligence is often underestimated, but they display a high degree of cognitive complexity, contradicting the myth of their limited memory and attention span.
• Studies have shown that fish can navigate, communicate effectively, remember, use tools, and learn from social cues, with some species of fish surpassing mammals in intelligence tests.
• Despite not having been extensively studied, various fish species have exhibited distinct personalities, and the ability to have fun and can perform tricks, all signs of cognitive sophistication.

How Do We Assess Fish Intelligence?

Intelligence in animals is generally categorized as those with a high degree of cognitive complexity. However, every species is different, and testing that intelligence is notoriously tricky. For example, a test that measures intelligence in a dog or an ape might not apply to fish. That doesn’t mean fish lack the requisite cognitive complexity. The challenge lies in working out what intelligence tests work best for each species.

Some metrics used to evaluate intelligence include mathematical competency, tool use, self-recognition, memory, and social learning.

Recognizing Fish Intelligence

One major challenge in recognizing fish intelligence is that scientific community bias assumes fish are toward the bottom of a linear evolutionary scale than mammals. The closer a species is to humans evolutionarily has long been used as a basis for assuming how intelligent that species is.

Since fish are assumed to be less evolved than mammals, until recently, most people didn’t realize just how intelligent fish are. However, that’s changed in the last decade or so, with fish intelligence studies increasing between 2010 and 2019. Now, it’s known that fish do have a relatively high degree of cognitive complexity, and are, therefore, intelligent.

Are Fish More Intelligent Than Dogs?

It’s difficult to compare intelligence across different species since individual animals have uniquely adapted to their environments and survival tactics. However, researchers discovered that blind Mexican cavefish discovered that the fish could create complex mind maps of their habitat only a few hours after being placed in a new tank.

The fish adapted their behavior to avoid new obstacles that were added to their aquariums, relying purely on memory and apparently learning from experience. So, although it’s difficult to be precise, many fish have performed better or as as as some dog breeds in intelligence tests.

For example, in Pavlovian training in dogs, a stimulus was given to the animals just before food was offered to them. In that experiment, it can take up to 20 trials before the dogs associate the stimulus and the food. Compare that with the reaction in wild rainbow fish who learned the association in just 14 trials!

What’s the Smartest Fish Species?

Manta rays have the largest brains of any fish studied, which could be associated with increased intelligence. African mormyrid fishes also have big brains with extensive complexity, possibly associated with the unique sensory system the fish have evolved.

That said, only a tiny fraction of the 32,000 known fish species have been studied, so it’s tricky to label any individual species as more or less intelligent than another. Nonetheless, fish per se have been noted to have cognitive complexity, meaning that they are considered to be intelligent.

Surprising Facts About Fish Intelligence

Here are some fish behaviors that require cognitive complexity. Does that mean fish are intelligent? What do you think?

Fish Just Wanna Have Fun!

Most hobbyists know that their fish can get stressed and depressed, but did you know your fishy friends can also have fun?

In fact, there are lots of fish behaviors that have no practical purpose other than the creatures just enjoy them!

For example, as you can see in this video, some fish enjoy riding in the bubble stream time and time again, clearly having fun.

Multitasking

Scientists once thought that the ability to multitask was down to having two distinct brain hemispheres or cerebral lateralization, a quality unique in humans. However, it’s since been discovered that some fish species have that quality, allowing them to multitask.

Fish Have Traditions

Fish have been shown to inherit information from older generations, such as fish migration. Interestingly, when the North Atlantic cod fishery collapsed, that was caused by overfishing the older members of the cod shoals, leaving no one to educate the upcoming younger generation.

Masters of Deception

Many fish species are masters of disguise and deception, using mimicry or camouflage to trick predators. Sometimes, an individual fish will engage in deception, whereas on occasion, the foolery takes place in group situations.

A great example of this is demonstrated by Brachyhypopomus gauderio. This species uses weak electric signals to communicate with others of the same species. These signals can indicate the size of the fish. Interestingly, smaller fish have been seen to amplify their electrical signals, making them appear bigger to deceive others.

Using Tools

Using tools is a sophisticated skill that’s generally exclusive to humans and some apes. However, fish can be master manipulators, too, using tools in various ways. For example, some fish can crack mollusks open to get at the nutritious flesh inside the shell.

Archerfish shoot streams of water to knock insects off overhanging branches, using extreme precision to score a direct hit. Not only that, but the water jets match the target’s size, ensuring there’s enough power to unbalance the unfortunate prey and send it tumbling down into the water.

Another amazing demonstration of fish using tools is certain cichlid species and catfish that stick their eggs to small stones and leaves, making it easier to transport them around.

Mental Ability

A study of cleaner wrasses and various primates presented each species with identical food on a blue and red plate. The research team removed the red plate after a short period leaving only the blue one.

Incredibly, only the fish realized that the best way to get the most food was to eat consistently from the red plate and then the blue one. Every single fish worked that out after only 45 trials, while it took two out of four chimps to come to the same conclusion after 60 and 70 repeats of the exercise.

When the same study was carried out using a human child, it took the subject over 100 trials to do what the fish managed!

Navigation

If you’re like me, you’ll struggle to find your way to a new place without a SatNav. However, fish are remarkable natural navigators and can give us a run for our money!

Fish use an amazing array of navigational techniques, including landmarks, magnetic fields, and cognitive maps. Some fish are even able to locate specific landmarks and objects using feature cues, which is something human beings can’t do until they reach at least six years of age.

Social Learning

Social learning is the term used to describe the ability to watch and imitate others within a group. For example, in experiments, untrained Zebrafish learned how to escape from trawl nets, a skill they copied from their more experienced peers.

Communication

Just because fish can’t talk doesn’t mean they can’t communicate and are not intelligent.

Take the electric fish, for example; they have three electroreceptor organs that can spot prey and predators, communicate with each other, and find their way around dark waters via electrolocation.

Fish can also communicate by teeth grinding, vibrating their swim bladders and gill covers, and rubbing their bones together.

Fish Have Memories

Despite what you might think, your fish has an excellent memory. I can vouch for my betta fish, who definitely recognizes me when I offer him a food reward for performing simple tricks.

There are also cleaner fish that know the fish they regularly clean, and that’s potentially up to 100 different fish! Cleaner fish clients can also remember their specific cleaners!

Perhaps most amazing of all are Frillfin gobies. These little fish feed in tidal pools close to the shoreline. When a predator appears, the fish leap to safety in an adjacent pool. So, how do the fish make those accurate leaps? Well, the Frillfins memorize the layout of the tidal pools while swimming around at high tide. Incredibly, the fish can make a mental map of the area after just one pass and remember it over a month later!

Fish Have Personalities

You might not think that fish have much in the way of personalities. After all, your fishy friends spend all day cruising around their aquarium, feeding, rooting through the substrate, and socializing with their tank mates.

However, recent research shows us that fish indeed have unique personalities. Some are confident and sassy, while others are shy and timid. Interestingly, a fish’s personality depends on its genetics and life experiences rather like yours and mine.

Fish Can Learn Tricks

Some fish species can learn simple tricks. That’s not only a great way to show off your pet to visitors but also demonstrates your fish friend’s intelligence.

For example, betta fish can be taught to jump through a hoop, play football, and follow their owner’s finger around the tank for a treat.

Final Thoughts

Fish of all species are surprisingly intelligent animals with amazing cognitive abilities. In various experiments and tests, fish have come out well ahead of mammals, including humans!

Our fishy friends are incredible navigators; they can learn to perform simple tricks, remember their owners and peers, communicate with each other, and even use tools. Fish have traditions handed down through generations and can multitask, too.

So, the next time someone tries to tell you that your pet fish are dopey or stupid, point them to this article and change their minds!

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